i3Detroit - User contributions [en]

Template:DepartedEquipment

2013-05-15T00:14:30Z

Surferdudemi: Added reference to departed equipment category

<noinclude>
= How to create a departed equipment page: =

The departed equipment template is used for equipment that formerly was at i3 and has left the space. In order to preserve the information, this template was created to make it easy to to switch the status and links within the wiki. Simply put the word "Departed" in front of the Equipment template callout at the beginning of a page.

<pre>
{{DepartedEquipment

| Name = Name of the tool goes here

| Intro = Some text to describe the equipment goes here.
* You can use any wiki formatting that you wish:
* Like a bulleted list

| Owner = Owner's Name(s) goes here, including percentage

| StorageLocation = Tell people where to find it, and where to put it away.

| MakeModel = Acme CNC Yak Shaver - Model 5000 deluxe

| PartNumber =

| Documents = Link(s) to on-line documentation

| LooksLike = Link(s) to picture(s) of it

| Rules =

Put the rules that govern the use of this tool here.
* Who is allowed to use it?
* Is there any traning required before use?

| Instructions =

You can write the instructions here. Or maybe add a link
to another page or the user's manual.

| OtherReferences =

Add links to any other sources that pertain to this equipment.

| MaintenanceInfo =

Does this thing need it's oil changed every 30 cycles?
People need to know!

| ToDos =

What problems does this thing have, or are there improvements that would make it better.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}
</pre>

</noinclude><includeonly>
__NOTOC__
__NOEDITSECTION__
{{ambox
|nocat=true
| type = notice
| text = Remember to always; '''clean up''' and '''return the equipment to a fully functional, safe state''' before you leave. This includes returning any safety mechanisms to fully working order.
}}
={{{Name}}}=
{{{Intro|}}}
== Basic Info ==
* Ownership: {{{Owner|''not specified'}}}
* Location: {{{StorageLocation|''not specified'}}}
* What it looks like: 
{{{LooksLike|[[File:PhotoNeeded.png|100px]]}}}
== Manufacturer Information ==
* Make/Model: {{{MakeModel|''not specified''}}}
* Part Number: {{{PartNumber|''not specified''}}}
==Documentation==
{{{Documentation|''not specified''}}}
== Rules ==
{{{Rules|Be excellent to each other!}}}
== Instructions ==
{{{Instructions|''not specified''}}}
== Other References ==
{{{OtherReferences|''not specified''}}}
== Maintenance ==
{{{MaintenanceInfo|''not specified''}}}
== Things that Need to be Done ==
{{{ToDos|''not specified''}}}
== FAQs ==
{{{FAQs|''none yet''}}}
[[Category:Departed_Equipment]]
</includeonly>

Category:Departed Equipment

2013-05-15T00:13:37Z

Surferdudemi: Added a category for departed equipment

This category page is to track all of the pieces of equipment that use the DepartedEquipment template and have left the space.

Category:Wood Shop

2013-05-15T00:11:25Z

Surferdudemi: /* Equipment */ Removed Delta Unisaw

[[file:I3detroit-woodworkingarea.jpg|400px|thumb|The woodworking area]]
== Shop Safety! ==

*Keep shop area clear of debris, cutoff pieces and other hazards.
*Wear Eye and Hearing protection at all time using woodworking power tools.
*Wear appropriate clothing. Tie long hair back, remove dangling jewelery, remove work gloves.
*Take your time. Accidents happen because someone is in too big of a hurry.
*Think about what you are doing. If something seems unsafe, it probably is.

== Dust Control ==

*Do not vacuum any metal objects with dust-control machine, it must be used only for sawdust.

== Equipment ==

*[[Belt+Disc Sander]]
*[[Craftsman 12in Band Saw]]
*[[Cyclonic Dust Collection System]]
*[[Delta 12in Disc Sander]]
*[[DeWALT Mitersaw]]
*[[Grizzly 16in Band Saw]]
*[[Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor]]
*[[Jet Drill Press]]
*[[Jointer]]
*[[Milwaukee Panel Saw]]
*[[Rigid 16gal Wet-Dry Vac]]
*[[RoundOverBit Router Cart]]
*[[Wood Lathe]]

== Consumables ==

*[[Wood Shop Consumables]]

== Power Tool Wish List==
* 10 inch plywood blade for table saw
* Thickness Planer
* Better Lathe and tools
* Better Drill Press

== Hand Tool Wish List==
* Carpenter's Square
* Square

== Wood Shop Training ==
* [[Wood Shop Training]]

Delta Unisaw

2013-05-15T00:10:35Z

Surferdudemi: ... and removed the Woodshop category reference

{{DepartedEquipment
| Name = Delta Unisaw
| Intro = A tool for cutting wood to a precise width.
| Owner = Nick Britsky
| StorageLocation = In the center of the wood shop.
| MakeModel = Delta Unisaw Model 36-812
| PartNumber = S/N 96A92313
| Documents = Link(s) to on-line documentation
| LooksLike = Link(s) to picture(s) of it
| Rules =

And Nick, take that doggone striped necktie off before cutting on the table saw. If we catch you doing that again, you're outta here.
Nick - "Can I still cut with solid neckties?"

| Instructions =
The table saw is a great tool, but can be very dangerous if not used carefully.

*Ensure table saw in in good working condition. Top should be clean and smooth, the rip fence should be exactly parallel to the blade.  Never operate the saw with the blade throat insert removed.   Before you start your cut, note where the emergency stop button is.
*Ensure that your work is free of nails, screws, staples, stones and loose knots.  These can damage the saw or become dangerous projectiles.
*Use a push stick to cut stock that is six inches or less in width.
*Think about what you are doing, and what will happen when the cut is complete. Will the work become unbalanced and fall? What happens to the offcut? Hint: Wedge shaped offcuts are extremely dangerous, and if they fall into the blade / throat area really bad things happen. (Been there, done that!)
*Always use the blade guard. Its there to protect you!
*Kickback is a particularly dangerous problem.   What causes kickback is when the work or cutoff gets trapped between the fence and the moving saw blade and kicks back at the operator at high speed.   Think blood, think gore, think cutoff and smashed fingers.  All bad stuff
*NEVER use the miter gauge and rip fence at the same time. Its too easy for the cutoff to kickback at you. If you are making lots of repeat cuts, use a stop block reference at the aft end of the fence, or add a stop block to the miter gauge. If you don't understand this description, ask someone to assist.  The one exception to using a miter gauge and rip fence at the same time is when cutting dados.
*No free hand cutting.  Use miter gauge or rip fence with work held securely.  Note: (one exception, cutting dados...)
*Cutting plywood is always troublesome.   Best practice is to cut full sheets down to manageable 'rough' size.  Later you can cut rough size down to finished pieces.  It's just safer to work that way.  Smaller sheets are easier to handle.  If a panel is not too long in relation to its width, it can be safely cut referenced against the rip fence. (No more than 2:1 aspect ratio.)  Panels too large for the rip fence or miter gauge should be cut using a clamp on cleat method, referenced to the edge of the table top.
*Don't release the work until the cut is complete. If something stalls, hit the shut off button, fast. 
* When the cut is complete, turn off the saw.  Don't lean over to pick up the offcuts until the saw blade is COMPLETELY stopped spinning.

| OtherReferences =
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4 Video demonstration of tablesaw kickback]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9D_vnevx4vI Video of unexpected tablesaw kickback]
| MaintenanceInfo =
*
| ToDos =
*
| FAQs =
*
}}

Delta Unisaw

2013-05-15T00:10:03Z

Surferdudemi: Moved the Delta saw to the departed equipment category

Template:DepartedEquipment

2013-05-15T00:09:07Z

Surferdudemi: Added a "departed equipment" template to the wiki

Solder Mask

2013-03-04T17:38:32Z

Surferdudemi: Fixed link to PCB plotter page

==How to Make a Solder Paste Stencil==
Most people use through-hole components for their projects because they are easy to use when bread-boarding a circuit and then easy to put together when you make your final project version. The problem that occurs, however, is that you cannot get many of the newer chips in through-hole packing either because they are specialized, used mostly in commercial products where SMT is common, or because the pin density is high.

The barrier to designing your circuit, doing the board layout, and getting boards made with SMT is not high. Eagle, for example, supports these devices easily, and you can either make your own boards on the [[PCB_Mill | PCB plotter]], or have it fabbed at any board house. You can even breadboard with through-hole components and then later do another variant by substituting the SMT version of the same components from the Eagle libraries (assuming both variants exist, of course).

When it comes to populating your own boards, you then run into potential problems. If you're only making one board, and you're using larger SMT components, you can use a magnifier and fine-tipped soldering iron to build your board. If you're doing a bunch, then you've got quite an effort ahead of you. One way to reduce the effort is to make a laser-cut solder paste stencil, and the great news is that we have everything you need at i3!

First, you'll need to export the stencil data from Eagle. In the board editor, turn off all of the layers except the Dimension and tCream (or bCream if you're putting the components on the bottom side). Then change the cream layer to a non-filled color. What you should see is the outline of your board, circles where you've placed any mounting holes, and a bunch of (usually) rectangular outlines where your pads are located. Print this view as a PDF with 1:1 scaling.

Import the PDF into Inkscape. You might be surprised to find that very little of what you saw in Eagle shows up. So change the Object Fill and Stroke to no fill, solid stroke, and 0.05mm stroke width. Then everything should show up. Save a copy of this in SVG format. Then Save a Copy in DXF format. Uncheck the lower selection in the DXF save menu and save the file someplave where you can find it easily, such as your desktop.

Open LaserCut (You might need to coop to a thumbdrive and take over to the laptop by the laser engraver). Import the DXF file. You should see the board outline and all of the pads and holes that you saw in Eagle. Select the board outline and make it a different layer. Then select any mounting holes and make them a third layer. Change the layer that holds your SMT pads to Engrave, and set the speed power to 400 / 25.

You'll need a sheet of polyester film (e.g., Mylar) for the mask. 3 or 4 mil thickness is typical for a solder stencil. You can use overhead transparency film from an office supply store, but make sure it's the kind for use in a laser printer / copier because it can withstand the heat. If you do not want to cut the mounting holes (you likely don't) or don't want to cut out the board outline (you likely do!), turn those layers off. If either of those layers is on, set it to Cut and set the speed power to 300 / 25.

Place a piece of thick (28lb or heavier) paper underneath the film on the laser bed. Align the sheets and find weights to hold down one of the edges so that the film/paper does not twist or shift. Run the Test on the laser engraver to make sure you've got it aligned right and that the head will not crash into the weights. Also, make sure that teh focus is set for the top surface of the film/paper so you get the best resolution. Then start your cut.

The paper underneath the film helps give you a better cut by preventing the laser from reflecting off the edges of the underlying honeycomb on the laser bed, so make sure you include this. Do not use tissue! The film will stick to the paper where it's cut / engraved, so you need a paper backing that's heavy enough to peel off from the film without tearing.

Note: If any of your parts have a very fine pitch (close spacing of small pins), you may find that parts of your stencil fall out, such as the center area of a chip. To avoid this, you can reduce the size of the pads slightly in Eagle. When you run your design rule check, change the SMT pad clearance on the Mask tab to allow a 1 or 2 mil clearance. It's counter-intuitive for this setting to be on the design rule check dialog, but that's where you can make several global settings for clearances and pad sizes for your board.

Solder Mask

2013-03-04T17:32:56Z

Surferdudemi: Added page that describes the process for laser-cutting a solder mask / stencil

==How to Make a Solder Paste Stencil==
Most people use through-hole components for their projects because they are easy to use when bread-boarding a circuit and then easy to put together when you make your final project version. The problem that occurs, however, is that you cannot get many of the newer chips in through-hole packing either because they are specialized, used mostly in commercial products where SMT is common, or because the pin density is high.

The barrier to designing your circuit, doing the board layout, and getting boards made with SMT is not high. Eagle, for example, supports these devices easily, and you can either make your own boards on the [[PCB_Mill PCB plotter]], or have it fabbed at any board house. You can even breadboard with through-hole components and then later do another variant by substituting the SMT version of the same components from the Eagle libraries (assuming both variants exist, of course).

When it comes to populating your own boards, you then run into potential problems. If you're only making one board, and you're using larger SMT components, you can use a magnifier and fine-tipped soldering iron to build your board. If you're doing a bunch, then you've got quite an effort ahead of you. One way to reduce the effort is to make a laser-cut solder paste stencil, and the great news is that we have everything you need at i3!

First, you'll need to export the stencil data from Eagle. In the board editor, turn off all of the layers except the Dimension and tCream (or bCream if you're putting the components on the bottom side). Then change the cream layer to a non-filled color. What you should see is the outline of your board, circles where you've placed any mounting holes, and a bunch of (usually) rectangular outlines where your pads are located. Print this view as a PDF with 1:1 scaling.

Import the PDF into Inkscape. You might be surprised to find that very little of what you saw in Eagle shows up. So change the Object Fill and Stroke to no fill, solid stroke, and 0.05mm stroke width. Then everything should show up. Save a copy of this in SVG format. Then Save a Copy in DXF format. Uncheck the lower selection in the DXF save menu and save the file someplave where you can find it easily, such as your desktop.

Open LaserCut (You might need to coop to a thumbdrive and take over to the laptop by the laser engraver). Import the DXF file. You should see the board outline and all of the pads and holes that you saw in Eagle. Select the board outline and make it a different layer. Then select any mounting holes and make them a third layer. Change the layer that holds your SMT pads to Engrave, and set the speed power to 400 / 25.

You'll need a sheet of polyester film (e.g., Mylar) for the mask. 3 or 4 mil thickness is typical for a solder stencil. You can use overhead transparency film from an office supply store, but make sure it's the kind for use in a laser printer / copier because it can withstand the heat. If you do not want to cut the mounting holes (you likely don't) or don't want to cut out the board outline (you likely do!), turn those layers off. If either of those layers is on, set it to Cut and set the speed power to 300 / 25.

Place a piece of thick (28lb or heavier) paper underneath the film on the laser bed. Align the sheets and find weights to hold down one of the edges so that the film/paper does not twist or shift. Run the Test on the laser engraver to make sure you've got it aligned right and that the head will not crash into the weights. Also, make sure that teh focus is set for the top surface of the film/paper so you get the best resolution. Then start your cut.

The paper underneath the film helps give you a better cut by preventing the laser from reflecting off the edges of the underlying honeycomb on the laser bed, so make sure you include this. Do not use tissue! The film will stick to the paper where it's cut / engraved, so you need a paper backing that's heavy enough to peel off from the film without tearing.

Note: If any of your parts have a very fine pitch (close spacing of small pins), you may find that parts of your stencil fall out, such as the center area of a chip. To avoid this, you can reduce the size of the pads slightly in Eagle. When you run your design rule check, change the SMT pad clearance on the Mask tab to allow a 1 or 2 mil clearance. It's counter-intuitive for this setting to be on the design rule check dialog, but that's where you can make several global settings for clearances and pad sizes for your board.

The Story of i3 Detroit

2013-02-26T03:06:55Z

Surferdudemi: Edited what was there and added a paragraph at the end.

==History==
The founding of i3 Detroit largely started with Russ Wolfe. Russ read an article in Wired magazine that described the ideas and principles behind hackerspaces and their recent growth in popularity. Russ gathered a group of like-minded people, had a logo designed, and set up a website. He put significant effort into seeking out people who would be interested and in bringing them together. That effort was a huge part of i3’s success. The initial group of people complete strangers to each other, so there wasn’t an in-group and an out-group. The initial members also all had many different skill sets, interests, and perspectives (as much as a group of white suburban males can). The group debated a lot, but if they could all agree on something, they knew they were on the right track. There were five people at the first meeting at the Coffee Beanery in Berkeley in April 2009. By July 2009, three months later, there were 9 members; the group started collecting dues!

By this time, the group was spending a lot of time meeting and discussing how to build a hackerspace and they were not actually making anything as a group. Matt Switlik, a founding member, opened up his garage to the group, so they started to have meetings in Matt's garage. They started by holding a small build session to build bristlebots. It was a fun activity that got everyone to actually build something together. This was the first meeting that Nick Britsky attended. The group found out that Ann Arbor was going to hold a mini-Maker Faire, so they decided to do a group build for exhibition. The group project for the mini-Maker Faire was a giant rideable bristlebot. The group presented itself at the mini-Maker Faire as i3 Detroit, with information about their grassroots effort andbooklets on how to become a member.

After the mini-Maker Faire, i3 Detroit really needed and wanted a space. Jaime Wolfe, Russ Wolfe’s wife, helped run the financial numbers for a few different spaces and determined the financial needs to survive. The founding members agreed to fund the space with $100 monthly dues. The group had negotiated a space in Royal Oak down to an affordable initial rate that increased over time as the group was expected to grow. The group had 13 members when they took possession of the Royal Oak space on Labor Day weekend of 2009.

i3 Detroit spent the next month as a group putting their personal time and money into bettering the space. They set a goal of holding a grand opening in October. After a long month of working late into the nights with both members and guests (who started stopping by the space and stuck around to help with the build out (Nate Warnick and Rashad Williams really stand out), the grand opening party needed to happen. The group once again raised funds to throw a party and was even able to get a local brewery to donate two kegs.

The group wrote a personal letter to Jim Ellison, the Mayor of Royal Oak, and invited him to do the ribbon cutting. Metro Times had posted the grand opening party event and the group was finally ready to share what they had been working on. The space had 17 members as the day of the grand opening party arrived. Many people showed up throughout the day, including the Mayor, who stylishly cut the ribbon with an oxy-acetylene welding torch. The party went late into the evening and even though the members were all weary, it was tempered by a great sense of accomplishment. The space looked great, with works of local artists hung on the walls throughout.

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradmcmahon/3980374005/ Photo 1]

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/bradmcmahon/3981078906/ Photo 2]

Along the way, i3 Detroit had reached out to other hackerspaces like [http://pumpingstationone.org Pumping Station One (PS:One)] and begun building good relationships and sharing ideas of what worked and what did not. The founding members of PS:One and i3 soon became good friends. The PS:One members traveled to i3 to spend time and the i3 members drive to Chicago. This is how PS:One really became i3 Detroit’s sister space.

The i3 members spread the word, went to local events to hand out flyers, and even got i3 involved in other groups' events. Nick Britsky and Russ Wolfe reached out to other organizations, going to their meetings and building relationships with [http://makezine.com Make], [http://handmadedetroit.com Handmade Detroit], etc.. The founding members were good at talking up i3 and spreading the word. They all seemed to live and breathe i3 at this point.

There were struggles as well, such as trying to determine the right price point for membership that allowed i3 to grow, yet not cut itself off from potential members due to their financial constraints. When the group had to leave Royal Oak and find a new building, they also had to raise additional funds. The group used word of mouth and a “help save the robots” campaign on Kickstarter. It worked, and the group was able to secure its [https://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&q=1481+wordsworth+ferndale&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=1481+Wordsworth+St,+Ferndale,+Oakland,+Michigan+48220&gl=us&t=h&z=16&vpsrc=0&iwloc=A current location] in Ferndale. i3 Detroit prided itself on holding community events and classes, which, in turn, helped to build the organization.

On March 31st, 2010, i3 Detroit migrated to its [https://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&q=1481+wordsworth+ferndale&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=1481+Wordsworth+St,+Ferndale,+Oakland,+Michigan+48220&gl=us&t=h&z=16&vpsrc=0&iwloc=A new home in Ferndale, MI]. The new location, a light industrial building, had over 1,000 square feet of office space and roughly 7,000 square feet of warehouse floor with a high-bay ceiling, more than 6,000 square feet larger than the previous space. The move was very hastily done, nothing was organized, and the space was functionally paralyzed for a few months. This, coupled with a mold abatement issue in the office areas, required determination and commitment from members to bring the space into a condition allowing it to be occupied. Amid the sound of saws and compressors, the new space, and i3 Detroit's first birthday, were both celebrated with a barbeque on April 25th, 2010.

== Present Day ==

i3 Detroit membership hovers around 70-80 dues-paying members and a handful of regular guests, with several people in the space on any given night of the week. Until recently, the space was primarily used in the evenings and nights. However, many new members have extended the hours of use into the daytime as well, so visitors have a much better chance that someone will be at the space if they decide to stop by for a visit. Recurring events and occasional classes dot the calendar, and i3 members often make a strong showing at local DIY-oriented events. This is nowhere more true than Maker Faire Detroit, the number of projects from i3 justifies a separate large tent.

Regional hackerpsaces cooperate and compete. One highlight of the summer is the friendly competition in a Powerwheels racing competition series at Maker Fiares and mini-Maker Faires. The competition can be serious and silly, with big hats and boomboxes mounted to some dashboards.

i3 Detroit was recently designated as a 501(c)(3) educational non-profit organization, reflecting its commitment to helping members of the community learn new skills and practice those skills in a well-equipped shop. Members freely share their skills in class settings and in one-on-one discussions related to specific member projects. Members are also regularly on the look-out for unique and useful additions to list of equipment available in the shop. If you stop by, you will see a mix of fully functional equipment, and some tools that are being renovated for use. The goal is to be able to walk in with an idea and be able to realize it in physical form. Having some fun along the way is also important, with regular member meetings and planned and impromptu social events.

3D Printer - Stratasys

2013-02-25T17:18:44Z

Surferdudemi: Added a few references to assist in bringing this machine up

{{Equipment

| Name = Stratasys FDM 1650 3-D Printer

| Owner = Brian Wennberg (100%)

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Stratsys FDM 1650

| Documents =

| LooksLike =
[[File:Stratasys.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

*

| Instructions =

Time-of-build checklist:

| OtherReferences =
Blog by a gentleman who took one apart and got it working again: [http://3d4u.org/MyFDM/ My FDM 1650 Blog]

Instructions for how to use it from Ball State University: [http://jcflowers1.iweb.bsu.edu/rlo/fdm.htm Lab Procedure]

Blog entry about finding more material at a reasonable price (not): [http://haveblue.org/?p=811 Material Madness]

Equipment page (like ours) from the London Hackerspace wiki: [http://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk/view/Equipment:Stratasys_FDM_1650 Equipment:Stratasys_FDM_1650]

| MaintenanceInfo =

| ToDos =

See if it works.
Get some software for it.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

AB's Laser Cutter

2013-02-21T22:58:27Z

Surferdudemi: Dropped this page from Fab Lab equipment listing

{{Equipment
| Name = <del>THE BIG RED LASER CUTTER</del> Gone but not forgotten...
| Owner = 100% AB Garcia 

| StorageLocation = FabLab

| MakeModel = Jinan XYZ Machinery LLC, model XJ1280

| PartNumber = NEEDS UPDATING

| LooksLike =

| Documents =
Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

The software is [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/35.html LaserCut 5.3] (though Help/About says 5.1), whose [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/LaserCut5.3%20Manual%20V1.6.pdf engrish manual]] is awful.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| Instructions =

#Design your parts.  You will need access to vector graphics software to do this.
#Find an operator.  To lower the risk of damaging the laser cutter, you must work with an operator to cut your parts.  You can get in touch with the operators by sending an email to the laser cutter operator mailing list (i3detroit-laser@googlegroups.com).
#Schedule a time to meet at i3 with your operator.
#Cut your parts.
#Pay for your time on the cutter ($10 / hour of active cutting time). Can use estimate-time function in LaserCut if you forget to jot down the time on the LCD when the cut was finished.

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry.
# Turn on main switch. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| FAQs =

'''How much does it cost to use the laser cutter?'''

$10 per hour of laser cutting time.  This does not mean $10 per hour of standing near the machine; rather, $10 per hour of time displayed on the laser cutter's digital read-out.  This timer is only active while the laser is cutting and its motors are moving.  For many cuts, the laser is only active for a few minutes, meaning to laser-cut a project part you will often pay less than a dollar.

'''Why do I have to pay to use the laser cutter?'''

The laser cutter's consumable parts are generally not expensive, such as the lens and distilled water.  The CO2 laser tubes, however, are $900 to $1,000 each.  The laser cutter has a built-in timer to track how long the cutter has been in operation.  This makes it simple for us to collect a fair amount of money - you pay for what you use - to eventually replace these expensive consumables.  In other shops, laser cutter usage time could be five or ten times more expensive.

'''Why do I have to work with an operator to cut parts?'''

The operator has received training with using the chiller, the exhaust system, and what to do in case of an emergency.  The purpose of the laser cutter operator is to prevent damage to the machine and to prevent '''you '''from being liable in case anything happens.  If you use the laser cutter without an operator, you lose all protection from liability and could be on the hook for thousands of dollars to replace what you break.

| Rules =

* Operation of the laser cutter must be done under the supervision of one of the trained operators.

* Do not cut or etch any of the banned materials listed below.

| OtherReferences =

[[ Sketchup_to_LaserCut ]] - How to import a Google Sketchup design into the LaserCut software.

}}

== Operators ==
{| width="50%" border="2" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1"
|-
! scope="col" | Operator Name
! scope="col" | Trained By
|-
| AB Garcia
| Owns the laser
|-
| Nate Bezanson
| AB
|-
| Dustin White
| AB
|-
| Brian Wennberg
| AB
|-
| Matt Arnold
| NateB and Dustin
|-
| Dave Worsey (pending)
| NateB and ???
|-
| Rocco ?
| Fill me in!
|-
|Brad Dahlhofer
|Dustin W/Nate B
|}

== Materials ==
The laser cutter can cut or etch a wide variety of materials.  However some are not possible to cut with our current set-up, and other materials are dangerous - they release fumes that damage humans or the laser cutter itself.

The laser can only etch some materials; it will not be able to cut through them.  See the materials list for more.

The key thing is not to try to cut:

#Any metals
#Any materials that contain glue (such as plywood)
#Any plastics or other materials that contain chlorine or vinyl

Seriously, do not cut any of the banned materials.

*[http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2010/07/laser-cut-vinyl-record-bad-idea/ Cutting vinyl: bad idea!]
*[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/laser_engraving_cutting_machines/56833-co2_laser_pvc_cutting.html Cutting PVC, Lexan, polycarbonates: bad idea!]

'''You are responsible for knowing exactly what your material is before you try to cut it.'''

'''Do not cut any materials marked as BANNED in the list below.  You would be liable for expensive damage to the machine or worse - you may release toxic fumes that could easily harm or kill!  ''' 

===Materials List===

{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1" align="center" width="770" style=""
|-
! scope="col" | Material
! scope="col" | Cut?
! scope="col" | Etch?
! scope="col" | Power
! scope="col" | Speed
|-
| Acrylic
| Yes
| Yes
| 
| 
|-
| Glass
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Coated Metals
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Ceramic
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Cloth 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Delrin
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Leather
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| BANNED - Lexan
| No
| No
|
|
|-
| BANNED - Human flesh (yes, this has come up)
| No
| No
|
|
|-
| Marble
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Matte Board
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Melamine
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Model Foam 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Paper 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Plexiglass
| Yes
| Yes
|
|
|-
| Mylar 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Painted Metals 
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| BANNED - Particle board 
| No 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| BANNED - Plywood 
| No 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| BANNED - Polycarbonate plastics of any kind 
| No 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| BANNED - PVC of any kind 
| No 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| Rubber 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Tile 
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Wood, veneer 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Wood, natural 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|}

===Cutting Parts on the Laser Cutter===

When cutting parts on the laser, you will use the software to set the cutting speed and power.  If we have cut the material you are using before, you can refer to the power and speed recommendations in the table above.  Otherwise - experiment!  Bring some scrap material to do test cuts on until you find a cut you are satisfied with.  After that, record your power and speed settings in the table above. 

In general:

*Lower speeds allow for lower cutting power, which saves life on the laser tube.
*Lower speeds cut a wider "kerf" (thickness of cut) through the material.
*At higher speeds the cut is faster but requires higher power, which uses up the laser tube faster.
*High power on wood and paper may cause some discoloration near the cuts (browning color from burned material).

[[Category:Equipment not currently at i3]]

Category:Fab Lab

2013-02-21T22:57:29Z

Surferdudemi: Added Stratasys link

[[file:fablab.JPG|thumb|400px|The Fab Lab]]
==Location==
Located between the Kitchen, E-Lab, Restroom, and the commons area.

== Equipment ==
*[[Makerbot|Makerbot CupCake CNC]]
*[[Printrbot|Printrbot]]
*[[PCB Mill|LPK C30/S (PCB Mill)]]
*[[3D_Printer_-_Stratasys|Stratasys FDM 1650]]
*Laser Cutter (Small)

== Important Notes ==
* Please keep the door between the Fab Lab and the Commons area closed. Doing so will help ensure that when the heater or air conditioner is running, the Fab Lab maintains an appropriate temperature. Also the AC/Heater for the office space isn't anywhere near efficient enough to cool/heat the main shop area, and we don't want to spend a hojillion dollars letting it try.

[[Category:Equipment]]

3D Printer - Stratasys

2013-02-21T22:54:53Z

Surferdudemi:

3D Printer - Stratasys

2013-02-21T22:53:57Z

Surferdudemi: Fixed photo ... grrr

{{Equipment

| Name = ?

| Owner = Brian Wennberg (100%)

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Stratsys FDM 1650

| Documents =

| LooksLike =
[[File:Stratasys.jpg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

*

| Instructions =

Time-of-build checklist:

| OtherReferences =

| MaintenanceInfo =

| ToDos =

See if it works.
Get some software for it.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

Laser Engraver - Wolverine

2013-02-21T22:51:40Z

Surferdudemi: Fixed Alt-text caption

{{Equipment

| Name = Wolverine

| Owner = [[User:Surferdudemi|Roger Slykhouse]]

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1290

| Documents =
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.

Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|Photo of Wolverine]]

| Rules =

* i3 Members may use this machine with permission of the owner.
* You must be trained to use this machine.
* There is a consumables fee for this machine of 10 cents per minute of laser-on time. (Check the display on the machine right after your job completes to get the time it ran.)

| Instructions =

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb). You can also run the head left / right and watch the red dot to see if it moves parallel to the edge of the material. Adjust as needed.
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry. If the other machine is not in use, cover the vents at the back of the OTHER machine to increase the exhaust flow.
# Turn powerstrip for the chiller and blower on. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Make sure there is nothing obstructing the path of the laser head toward the right rear of the working surface! Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z. On Wolverine, do two quick jogs up on the Z-axis if you use the auto-focus / Datum feature.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| OtherReferences =

Two good sources of info:
http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/vbul/forum/forum.php
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

| MaintenanceInfo =

We do not know the maintenance schedule for this machine yet. The tube is warranted for 10 months and eventually will need to be replaced. The glass should be cleaned regularly, and the screw drives for the Z-axis should be checked for lubrication.

| ToDos =

Develop a list of materials, with speed and power settings for various cutting depths.
Add bumpers under the lid.
Add stringer gas shocks so the lid does not slam shut.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

3D Printer - Stratasys

2013-02-21T22:50:22Z

Surferdudemi: Added photo

{{Equipment

| Name = ?

| Owner = Brian Wennberg (100%)

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Stratsys FDM 1650

| Documents =

| LooksLike =
[[File:Stratasys.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

*

| Instructions =

Time-of-build checklist:

| OtherReferences =

| MaintenanceInfo =

| ToDos =

See if it works.
Get some software for it.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

File:Stratasys.jpg

2013-02-21T22:49:12Z

Surferdudemi: Photo of front of Stratasys

Photo of front of Stratasys

3D Printer - Stratasys

2013-02-21T22:48:31Z

Surferdudemi: Added page for new (used) Stratasys

{{Equipment

| Name = ?

| Owner = Brian Wennberg (100%)

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Stratsys FDM 1650

| Documents =

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

*

| Instructions =

Time-of-build checklist:

| OtherReferences =

| MaintenanceInfo =

| ToDos =

See if it works.
Get some software for it.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

Wishlist

2013-02-21T21:10:53Z

Surferdudemi: Added cross-link to Shopping List page

This page is for items that add capability or comfort to the space and are generally a one-time purchase. For consumable items, please refer to the [[Shopping_List]] page.

Note: Strike-out items which have been acquired

==Electronics Room==
* <s>Digital oscilloscope, Rigol DS1052E seems popular</s>
* 'Scope cart, top shelf min 19" deep x 14.5" wide
* Cadex C8000 battery analyzer. ;)
* Spectrum analyzer covering ISM bands, anything else is gravy
* Stereo / trinocular microscope, boom mount, C-mount camera adapter
* Preheat station for benchtop rework
* Reflow oven for SMT assembly
* Solder pot
* Vacuum desoldering station (Can be air-driven, we have shop air)
* Solder fume extraction, benchtop or under-bench charcoal absorber and flex arms
* ESD chip-storage bins/boxes, especially multi-drawer cabinets or multi-bin flip-top trays
* Raspberry Pi, Beagleboard/bone, and other similar embedded/dev boards
* SMT-package air nozzles for our hot air station
* Desktop-size PCB shear, 12" throat would be plenty
* <s>parts drawers</s>
* <s>soldering station</s>
* <s>SMT hot-air station</s>
* <s>Pogo pins in spearpoint and tenderizer styles</s>

==Wood Shop==
* CNC Router, ShopBot or similar(Min: 4'x8')
* ShopBot (4'x8' or larger)
* <s>wood lathe</s>
* <s>planer</s>
* <s>belt / drum sander</s>
* <s>table saw</s>
* <s>mitre saw</s>
* <s>drill press</s>

Metal Shop:
* parts washer
* surface grinder
* CNC plasma torch
* Lower Gauge shear, roller & brake (Pneumatic/Electric)
* Water-Jet Cutter
* Throatless shear
* Punch or ironworker
* English wheel, planishing hammer, etc
* <s>mill</s>
* <s>lathe</s>
* <s>grinding wheel</s>
* <s>surface plate</s>
* <s>sheet metal shear / roller / brake</s>

==Welding Bench==
* <s>TIG Welder</s>
* NdYag Metal-cutting Laser

==Hardware and Power Tools==
* <s>Storage Bins for parts storage</s>

==Fab Lab==
* 3D printer better than Makerbot / Printr bot
* <s>PCB mill</s>

==Computing==
* server (be more specific?)
* <s>802.11 access point</s>
* <s>printer</s>
* <s>scanner</s>
* <s>webcams</s>

==Craft Room==
* spray booth
* sewing machine
* serger
* loom weaver
* embroidery machine
* <s>art supplies</s>
* <s>painting supplies</s>
* <s>cross-stitch</s>

==Kitchen==
* <s>fridge</s>
* <s>microwave</s>
* <s>electric kettle</s>

==Lounge==
* MAME cabinet
* Pinball machines

== Commons Area ==
* Classroom space
* Bean Bag Chairs
* Coffee Table
* Concrete Blocks
* Formica Counter tops
* Panduit Finger Tray
* Hard Drives for server storage
* <s>Bunk couches</s>
* <s>Locker type area for members to store personal items</s>
* <s>Chairs for meeting table and work stations</s>
* <s>Signal generators</s>
* <s>Whiteboards</s>
* <s>Physical space to sit and chat.</s>
* <s>Internet connection for laptops & Computer Lab</s>
* <s>Internet connection for servers</s>
* <s>Computer parts for community use</s>
* <s>Lumber - for building a larger center room meeting/project table</s>
* <s>Lamps</s>
* <s>42" LCD display</s>
* <s>LCD Monitors</s>
* <s>Book Case</s>
* <s>10/100/1000 Switches 24 port or 48 port</s>
* <s>Wireless Access Point</s>
* <s>Printers (Prefer Networked, but can make this happen many ways)</s>
* <s>Projector</s>
* <s>Speakers</s>
* <s>Stereo Receiver</s>

==General Supplies==
* Power strips (can never have too many)
* Extension cords (ditto)
* Welding helmets and gloves
* Wire rope swaging tool
* Dewar Flask for liquid nitrogen
* chalkboard (brush-on chalkboard paint to turn a wall into a chalkboard)
* <s>Paint</s>
* <s>Office chairs</s>
* <s>whiteboard</s>
* <s>keg</s>
* <s>bike rack</s>
* <s>peg boards and hooks</s>
* <s>lockers</s>
* <s>Laser Cutter</s>

[[Category:Reference Data]]

Shopping List

2013-02-21T21:09:10Z

Surferdudemi: Added new page for consumables

This page is for consumable items that we need in the space. Please add items as needed. If you're heading out to someplace that carries this kind of stuff, or doing some online buying, check here for stuff that we need at the space.

For tools and one-time buys, please see the [[Wishlist]] page.

==Electronics Room==
* LED <s>bargraph, 7-segment</s>, and alphanumeric displays
* LED dot-matrix displays
* 22AWG solid hookup wire (24's too flexible for breadboard use.)
* Spare hardware for panel-mount switches and pots: 15/32-32NS, M12-1, M6-.75, and 1/4-40NS nuts, weather covers, etc.
* ESD conductive black foam for chip storage
* Memristors, as soon as someone starts selling them
* Fakra-to-SMA adapters/pigtails
* Other RF adapters including u.fl pigtails
* Connector samples kits: Especially latching wire-to-board connectors with 0.100" spacing.
* Mini connector samples kits: Mini-JST and other. FIXME, if you know some common ones.
* Stepper and PMDC motor driver chips / breakouts / complete modules
* <s>Fuse holders for glass and automotive blade type fuses</s>

* Wire rope (3/32" or so)
* Fine and Ultra-fine Sharpies
* CF and SD cards, any size you're not using
* Unistrut, 80/20, Misumi, MakerSlide, and similar "erector set for big kids" rail and parts
* Casters
* 1/4NPT and 1/8NPT adapters and fittings every which way
* <s>hardware (nuts & bolts)</s>
* <s>lumber, lumber storage</s>
* <s>Cat5E</s>

Wishlist

2013-02-21T21:08:57Z

Surferdudemi: Updated and re-organized the lists. Moved consumables to new Shopping List page

Note: Strike-out items which have been acquired

==Electronics Room==
* <s>Digital oscilloscope, Rigol DS1052E seems popular</s>
* 'Scope cart, top shelf min 19" deep x 14.5" wide
* Cadex C8000 battery analyzer. ;)
* Spectrum analyzer covering ISM bands, anything else is gravy
* Stereo / trinocular microscope, boom mount, C-mount camera adapter
* Preheat station for benchtop rework
* Reflow oven for SMT assembly
* Solder pot
* Vacuum desoldering station (Can be air-driven, we have shop air)
* Solder fume extraction, benchtop or under-bench charcoal absorber and flex arms
* ESD chip-storage bins/boxes, especially multi-drawer cabinets or multi-bin flip-top trays
* Raspberry Pi, Beagleboard/bone, and other similar embedded/dev boards
* SMT-package air nozzles for our hot air station
* Desktop-size PCB shear, 12" throat would be plenty
* <s>parts drawers</s>
* <s>soldering station</s>
* <s>SMT hot-air station</s>
* <s>Pogo pins in spearpoint and tenderizer styles</s>

==Wood Shop==
* CNC Router, ShopBot or similar(Min: 4'x8')
* ShopBot (4'x8' or larger)
* <s>wood lathe</s>
* <s>planer</s>
* <s>belt / drum sander</s>
* <s>table saw</s>
* <s>mitre saw</s>
* <s>drill press</s>

Metal Shop:
* parts washer
* surface grinder
* CNC plasma torch
* Lower Gauge shear, roller & brake (Pneumatic/Electric)
* Water-Jet Cutter
* Throatless shear
* Punch or ironworker
* English wheel, planishing hammer, etc
* <s>mill</s>
* <s>lathe</s>
* <s>grinding wheel</s>
* <s>surface plate</s>
* <s>sheet metal shear / roller / brake</s>

==Welding Bench==
* <s>TIG Welder</s>
* NdYag Metal-cutting Laser

==Hardware and Power Tools==
* <s>Storage Bins for parts storage</s>

==Fab Lab==
* 3D printer better than Makerbot / Printr bot
* <s>PCB mill</s>

==Computing==
* server (be more specific?)
* <s>802.11 access point</s>
* <s>printer</s>
* <s>scanner</s>
* <s>webcams</s>

==Craft Room==
* spray booth
* sewing machine
* serger
* loom weaver
* embroidery machine
* <s>art supplies</s>
* <s>painting supplies</s>
* <s>cross-stitch</s>

==Kitchen==
* <s>fridge</s>
* <s>microwave</s>
* <s>electric kettle</s>

==Lounge==
* MAME cabinet
* Pinball machines

== Commons Area ==
* Classroom space
* Bean Bag Chairs
* Coffee Table
* Concrete Blocks
* Formica Counter tops
* Panduit Finger Tray
* Hard Drives for server storage
* <s>Bunk couches</s>
* <s>Locker type area for members to store personal items</s>
* <s>Chairs for meeting table and work stations</s>
* <s>Signal generators</s>
* <s>Whiteboards</s>
* <s>Physical space to sit and chat.</s>
* <s>Internet connection for laptops & Computer Lab</s>
* <s>Internet connection for servers</s>
* <s>Computer parts for community use</s>
* <s>Lumber - for building a larger center room meeting/project table</s>
* <s>Lamps</s>
* <s>42" LCD display</s>
* <s>LCD Monitors</s>
* <s>Book Case</s>
* <s>10/100/1000 Switches 24 port or 48 port</s>
* <s>Wireless Access Point</s>
* <s>Printers (Prefer Networked, but can make this happen many ways)</s>
* <s>Projector</s>
* <s>Speakers</s>
* <s>Stereo Receiver</s>

==General Supplies==
* Power strips (can never have too many)
* Extension cords (ditto)
* Welding helmets and gloves
* Wire rope swaging tool
* Dewar Flask for liquid nitrogen
* chalkboard (brush-on chalkboard paint to turn a wall into a chalkboard)
* <s>Paint</s>
* <s>Office chairs</s>
* <s>whiteboard</s>
* <s>keg</s>
* <s>bike rack</s>
* <s>peg boards and hooks</s>
* <s>lockers</s>
* <s>Laser Cutter</s>

[[Category:Reference Data]]

LED Grow Lights

2013-02-17T17:26:45Z

Surferdudemi: Added photo

==Using LEDs to Grow Indoors==
I've been growing plants for a long time, and starting indoors is pretty much a given in Michigan where the growing season is too short for some crops. There are also some tropical plants, like hibiscus, that people like to grow and are not frost-hardy. A typical solution is special fluorescent grow lights or just plain cool white tubes. I've lately been investigating LED solutions.
===Which wavelengths?===
The first thing to figure out is which LEDs to get and how many? I punted the second part of the question, mostly because I have no way to measure this, and focused on the first. There's some pretty good research available:

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grow_light Wikipedia]

[http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/sites/ag.arizona.edu.ceac/files/Kubota%20Short%20Course%20Lighting.pdf MSU/UA Research Slides]

[http://www.hort.vt.edu/ghvegetables/documents/GH%20Lighting/High-Powered_LED_Cultivation_Study_2005.pdf VaTech Research Paper]
===The Project===
As a start, had some PCBs fabbed to hold 1/2 watt red LEDs that I got at a reasonable price of about 40 cents apiece. I wanted a really simple solution, so I did away with the power supply. I measured the voltage beyond which the LEDs go into thermal avalanche (current increases with falling voltage, burning them out) and put enough of them in series that this voltage would not be reached when the series is just plugged into a wall outlet. Note that this might not be the most efficient, since you're not running the LEDs at a constant high current, but it's really simple. The number of LEDs works out to about 64. During part of the AC waveform, the LEDs run at a higher current than they are designed for, but this is offset by a long period when they are conducting below this current, and fully half the time when they are reverse-biased and not conduction at all, so there's plenty of time for the junction to cool! You can put two of these strings in parallel but reversed polarity and it takes full advantage of both sides of the AC waveform ... they're just diodes, right?
I mounted the circuit boards in a simple fixture composed of a laser-cut plexi front side and a laser-cut wooden holder. Everything snaps into place with a little help from a screw driver. Wiring consists of wire nuts to a cord and some strain relief.
I'll post the electrical design and some photos in the near future. Just wanted to get this page up here to start some discussion. Growing season is approaching!

[[File:LEDGrowLight.jpg|1024px|Version 1]]

File:LEDGrowLight.jpg

2013-02-17T17:22:45Z

Surferdudemi: Picture of LED Grow Light

Picture of LED Grow Light

LED Grow Lights

2013-02-17T17:09:44Z

Surferdudemi: Added page for my LED grow light project.

==Using LEDs to Grow Indoors==
I've been growing plants for a long time, and starting indoors is pretty much a given in Michigan where the growing season is too short for some crops. There are also some tropical plants, like hibiscus, that people like to grow and are not frost-hardy. A typical solution is special fluorescent grow lights or just plain cool white tubes. I've lately been investigating LED solutions.
===Which wavelengths?===
The first thing to figure out is which LEDs to get and how many? I punted the second part of the question, mostly because I have no way to measure this, and focused on the first. There's some pretty good research available:
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grow_light]]
[[http://ag.arizona.edu/ceac/sites/ag.arizona.edu.ceac/files/Kubota%20Short%20Course%20Lighting.pdf]]
[[http://www.hort.vt.edu/ghvegetables/documents/GH%20Lighting/High-Powered_LED_Cultivation_Study_2005.pdf]]
===The Project===
As a start, had some PCBs fabbed to hold 1/2 watt red LEDs that I got at a reasonable price of about 40 cents apiece. I wanted a really simple solution, so I did away with the power supply. I measured the voltage beyond which the LEDs go into thermal avalanche (current increases with falling voltage, burning them out) and put enough of them in series that this voltage would not be reached when the series is just plugged into a wall outlet. Note that this might not be the most efficient, since you're not running the LEDs at a constant high current, but it's really simple. The number of LEDs works out to about 64. During part of the AC waveform, the LEDs run at a higher current than they are designed for, but this is offset by a long period when they are conducting below this current, and fully half the time when they are reverse-biased and not conduction at all, so there's plenty of time for the junction to cool! You can put two of these strings in parallel but reversed polarity and it takes full advantage of both sides of the AC waveform ... they're just diodes, right?
I mounted the circuit boards in a simple fixture composed of a laser-cut plexi front side and a laser-cut wooden holder. Everything snaps into place with a little help from a screw driver. Wiring consists of wire nuts to a cord and some strain relief.
I'll post the electrical design and some photos in the near future. Just wanted to get this page up here to start some discussion. Growing season is approaching!

Bat House

2013-01-31T18:10:24Z

Surferdudemi: Added page for this project.

I've made three copies of a bat house based up on the Rocket design, posted elsewhere.
'''[http://www.audubondallas.org/forum/showthread.php?s=9422c9b41c88f271e4d481d5129bb422&t=1454 Example]'''

I started by laying out the pieces on a 4'x8' work surface, assuming I'd use plywood. I ended up with two sheets of plywood to make enough parts for 3 bat houses.

I took the design, along with some plywood, to the Fab Lab at Lorraine county Community College, southwest of Cleveland. They have a Shop Bot and were very helpful in getting me going on that. I cut all the parts and then stalled for a little bit until I joined i3. With the tools and renewed motivation, I varnished both sides of the pieces and put them together.

As it turns out, plywood is not the best choice for this kind of construction. When you shoot screws edgewise to fasten one sheet to another, it tends to splity the layers. Pre-drilling helps, but does not completely solve the problem. If you want to know more, ask!

Main Page

2013-01-31T17:59:23Z

Surferdudemi: Removed (outdated) Projects section

== [http://i3detroit.com i3 Detroit] - The Metro Detroit Hackerspace ==

== Upcoming Events ==
*'''[[Meetings|Regular Meeting]]''' every first and third Tuesday at 7:00pm at [[Location|i3 Detroit]]
*'''[[Meetings|Board Meeting]]''' every second Tuesday at 7:30pm at [[Location|i3 Detroit]]
*'''[http://www.eventbrite.com/org/245909400?s=1360008 Classes and Events]''' - our current schedule on Eventbrite.

== Members ==

;[[Members|Members]]
:List of Active Members
;[[MemberProjects|Member Projects]]
:Independent Projects in Progress
;[[New Member Orientation#FAQ|FAQ]] / [[New Member Orientation]]
:Info for new and potential members, including the [[Glossary|Glossary]]

;[[HOWTO Get a Wiki Account]]
:Because contributions to the wiki are always good!

== Equipment ==

Information and safety procedures for our tools and equipment organized by location:

{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1" class="wikitable"
|-
! Zone
! Zone Warden
! Phone
! Email
|-
|[[Craft Room]]
|Kevin Flory
|(419) 234-6200
|kevin.flory@gmail.com
|-
|[[Laser Cutters]]
|[[user:Mattarnold|Matt Arnold]]
|(248) 787-7436
|matt.mattarn@gmail.com
|-
|[[Electronics Room]]
|Nathaniel B
|(248) 379-3614
|Myself@telcodata.us
|-
|[[Machine Shop]]
|Steve H
| (734) 788-4667
|steveghermann@gmail.com
|-
|[[Wood Shop]]
|Greg S / Dave S
|248-649-3565 / 248-632-3370
|GregSSmith@aol.com / djscholl@gmail.com
|-
|[[Welding Area]]
| Nate W
| 248-677-1331
| Nate_LapT@i3detroit.com
|-
|[[Kiln Zone]]
| Terry W
| see [[CRM]] or sign in Kiln Zone
| see [[CRM]] or sign in Kiln Zone
|-
|[[Bicycle Shop]]
|Dustin W
|(248) 794-0581
|dustinbikes@gmail.com
|-
|[[Vinyl Shop]]
|
|
|
|-
|[[Fab_Lab|Fab Lab]]
|Matt H
|(248) 343-7432
|extrudude@i3detroit.com
|-
|[[Tool Crib]] /consumables area
|
|
|
|-
|[[Lost and Found / Graveyard]]
|
|
|
|-
|[[CNC Shop]]
|Brian W
| (517) 974-4817
| byddcryf@gmail.com
|-
|[[Injection Molding Shop]]
| Nate W
| 248-677-1331
| Nate_Lapt@i3detroit.com
|-
|[[Commons Area]]
| Your Mom
|
|
|-
|}
List of all the [[Equipment]].
[[Map of Zones]].

== Infrastructure ==

;'''[[Network]]'''
:The i3Detroit network information page.

;'''[[HVAC]]'''
:The heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems.

;'''[[Breaker Panels]]'''
:The circuit breaker panels.

== Resources and Records ==

;'''[[Bylaws|By Laws]]'''
:Organizations Governance. In this document 'Members' refers to voting members as apposed to all 'key holders'.
;'''[[Standing rules]]'''
:Rules for the space.
;'''[[Officers]]'''
:A list of the current officers.
;'''[[:Category:Meeting Minutes|Meeting Minutes]]'''
:Minutes from our past meetings.
;'''[[:Category:Proposals|Proposals]]'''
:Archive of proposals and votes.
;'''[[Committees]]''' 
:List of committees and their resources
;'''[[In the Media]]'''
:Published articles, videos, etc. about i3 Detroit.
;'''[[Sources|Material and Tool Sources]]'''
:Places to get materials and tools.
;'''[[Community Contacts]]'''
:Groups and people to collaborate with.
;'''[[Reports]]'''
:Various reports for the organization.
;'''[[ToDo]]'''
:The ever-changing list of maintenance and improvement tasks.
;'''[[Data Management]]''' and '''[[Communication]'''
:List of all systems we use to manage member and space data. (Merge these pages!)
;'''[[Forms]]'''
:Group Forms, Waivers, Sign-Ups, etc.
;'''[[Library]]'''
:Books owned by members that can be checked out.
;'''[[Uploads]]'''
:Useful uploaded files, such as flyers, graphics, and more.
;'''[[Historical]]'''
:Old versions of Bylaws, Standing Rules, etc.

== [[Procedures and Instructions]] ==

;'''[[HOWTO Park your car]]''' 
:Rubber side down.
;'''[[HOWTO Close up the space]]''' 
:A checklist to complete if you are the last one out at the end of the night.
;'''[[HOWTO Host an event at i3detroit]]''' 
:Scheduling, publicity, day-of tasks.
;'''[[Harassment Policy]]''' 
:Expectations about behavior and what the group would do about it.
;'''[[Officer and Director Tutorials]]''' 
:Information for Officers and Directors in training
Other procedures, including membership processing are on the [[Procedures and Instructions]] page.

 

== Choose Your Own Adventure ==

;'''[[Start the adventure?]]'''

Laser Engraver - Wolverine

2013-01-13T18:28:20Z

Surferdudemi: Minor changes to checklist

{{Equipment

| Name = Wolverine

| Owner = [[User:Surferdudemi|Roger Slykhouse]]

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1290

| Documents =
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.

Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

* i3 Members may use this machine with permission of the owner.
* You must be trained to use this machine.
* There is a consumables fee for this machine of 10 cents per minute of laser-on time. (Check the display on the machine right after your job completes to get the time it ran.)

| Instructions =

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb). You can also run the head left / right and watch the red dot to see if it moves parallel to the edge of the material. Adjust as needed.
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry. If the other machine is not in use, cover the vents at the back of the OTHER machine to increase the exhaust flow.
# Turn powerstrip for the chiller and blower on. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Make sure there is nothing obstructing the path of the laser head toward the right rear of the working surface! Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z. On Wolverine, do two quick jogs up on the Z-axis if you use the auto-focus / Datum feature.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| OtherReferences =

Two good sources of info:
http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/vbul/forum/forum.php
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

| MaintenanceInfo =

We do not know the maintenance schedule for this machine yet. The tube is warranted for 10 months and eventually will need to be replaced. The glass should be cleaned regularly, and the screw drives for the Z-axis should be checked for lubrication.

| ToDos =

Develop a list of materials, with speed and power settings for various cutting depths.
Add bumpers under the lid.
Add stringer gas shocks so the lid does not slam shut.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

Laser Engraver - Wolverine

2013-01-13T18:22:22Z

Surferdudemi: Updated from cost per hour to cost per minute

{{Equipment

| Name = Wolverine

| Owner = [[User:Surferdudemi|Roger Slykhouse]]

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1290

| Documents =
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.

Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

* i3 Members may use this machine with permission of the owner.
* You must be trained to use this machine.
* There is a consumables fee for this machine of 10 cents per minute of laser-on time. (Check the display on the machine right after your job completes to get the time it ran.)

| Instructions =

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry.
# Turn powerstrip for the chiller and blower on. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| OtherReferences =

Two good sources of info:
http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/vbul/forum/forum.php
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

| MaintenanceInfo =

We do not know the maintenance schedule for this machine yet. The tube is warranted for 10 months and eventually will need to be replaced. The glass should be cleaned regularly, and the screw drives for the Z-axis should be checked for lubrication.

| ToDos =

Develop a list of materials, with speed and power settings for various cutting depths.
Add bumpers under the lid.
Add stringer gas shocks so the lid does not slam shut.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

Class Policy

2013-01-09T01:14:13Z

Surferdudemi: Added page describing policy on classes at or related to i3 Detroit, per Board request.

The purpose of this policy is to set basic guidelines for the teaching of classes either on the i3 Detroit premises, or with the claim that i3 Detroit sponsors the class. This policy sets forth basic guidelines with the understanding that situations will arise where good judgement of the parties involved will be required.

== Use of i3 Detroit Facilities ==

Facilities owned, leased, or rented by i3 Detroit for general purposes not specific to a class may be used for teaching classes which are open to members or non-members in any combination with the sole limitation that a member must sponsor the class Anyone organizing or participating in a class must recognize that most facilities are intended to be used by members on an ad hoc basis and are not intended to be used on an exclusive basis for classes. The practical implication of this is that there may be noise or other disturbances that arise during a class due to normal use of the facilities and equipment by other members. Class organizers should be pro-active and ask on the members' list that other members minimize potential interruptions during the time the class is conducted, if this will be necessary. Infrequently, where special circumstances require it, members may request of the Board that a portion of the facilities be set aside exclusively for a class (or other activity). Organizers should not assume that such a request will be automatically granted. Example reasons for such a request may include safety considerations (e.g., fire arts class) or a special group (e.g., large group of non-members). Classes must observe the Standing Rules for use of the space, including where classes may include non-adult attendees.

== Payment for Classes ==

Classes may be free or require a fee. The allowed fee components include covering the cost of materials, payment for the instructor's time, rent of a non-i3 Detroit facility, and / or a (voluntary) donation to i3 Detroit. In general, since one purpose of i3 Detroit is to promote education, fees should be held to the minimum necessary to cover costs so as to make the class available to as many people as possible. It shall be up to the organizers to determine any remuneration for instructors or helpers, but this is not intended as a profit-making venture for the organization or its members. However, we also recognize that outside instructors may provide valuable knowledge and expertise not present in the membership, and these instructors may require compensation. Covering these costs via class fees is allowable and encouraged. If a fee over an above direct costs is required, the organizer must allow a discounted rate for members of i3 Detroit if the class is held at an i3 Detroit facility. The level of discount is entirely up to the organizer.

== Payment of Class Fees ==

Class fees may be collected in cash at the class or in advance (or after) via any other method preferred by the organizer. Class organizers need not report total fees collected or how they are disbursed. If the organizer intends to donate all or a portion of the fees to i3 Detroit, then the money should be turned over to the Treasurer either in cash or via a medium (such as PayPal) acceptable to the Treasurer, along with a brief description of the source of the donations.

== Promotion and Reporting ==

Class organizers are required to post class details on the i3 Detroit calendar to ensure that members are aware that the space will be in use. This can also be used to promote the class. Organizers are encouraged to post class attendance and other details they deem appropriate to the members' list and / or the wiki.

== Attendee Status ==

Classes may be open to members and non-members.

Category:Networking

2012-12-28T16:17:59Z

Surferdudemi: /* IP Addresses in use */

= Wireless Network =

The SSID is '''''i3''''' , there is no encryption, this is considered a feature (for the moment).

You may occasionally see an SSID of '''''3302''''' or '''''1216''''', these are the FIRST Robot control WLANs. They are completely isolated networks and are probably not very interesting to you.

= LAN Addresses =

Internally, we are using the 10.13.0.0/16 supernet. It should sidestep most VPN overlap problems, should we establish any connections to other locations. At present, we are only using one subnet of this: 10.13.0.0/24.

== Subnet: 10.13.0.0/24 ==

=== Static Hosts ===

If you have something that needs to be attached to the network at i3Detroit, a static IP address can be assigned to it. This is useful in cases where something like a printer or a tool needs to be on the network with a known address that doesn't change. Most member and guest laptops, however, do not need one of these.
 If you have something that needs a fixed address but can't be configured for one (for some reason), something known as a DHCP reservation can be applied. Please contact [[User:Jcbender|Joe B]] or Nate W to help you out with this.
 
If you can, please try to create a wiki page with information about the thing you just attached to the network, and link to that from the IP address listing here.
 

'''Static hosts use the following settings:'''

{|
|-
| IP address
| Take an unused address from the table below. Document which address you used. When in doubt, ping first.
|-
| Subnet mask
| 255.255.255.0
|-
| Default Gateway
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS Server
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS domain name
| i3detroit.local
|-
| Time / NTP server
| 10.13.0.1 or 10.13.0.5 (The LAN switch is also an NTP server)
|}

 

=== IP Addresses in use ===
{|
|-
! Address
! Host
! Description
! Admin(s)
|-
| 10.13.0.1
| pfsense
| The firewall and dhcp server. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], Brad, [[User:Nate_lapt| NateW]], Ted and others.
|-
| 10.13.0.5
| [[i3switch01]]
| This is the Cisco 3750 Ethernet switch that drives i3! Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.6
| Cisco 1130 AP i3DetroitAP01
| This is primary access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.7
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP02
| This is the office space access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.8
| Asterisk
| We make phone calls with this. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Nate_lapt| Nate]].
|-
| 10.13.0.10
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]]
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.11
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]] IP #2 (required)
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.13
| Camera Server - This can be re-purposed
| Big brother is watching you. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.14
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP03
| This is the back-of-shop access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.15
| i3Debian - Skynet
| "The Debian Box" General-purpose sandbox. Not to be considered reliable or mission-critical
| Ted, [[User:Nate_lapt| NateW]], Eric, ToasterDan, Ross
|-
| 10.13.0.40
| [[i3Switch02]]
| i3 Second managed Ethernet switch in rack
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.50
| Plotter
| [[HOWTO use the Plotter|The HP DesignJet 300 ]]
| Roger, Rocco?
|-
| 10.13.0.51
| Laserjet-5si
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_5si|Laserjet 5si]] MX printer in the "print shop" area
| Rocco
|-
| 10.13.0.53
| Color LaserJet 4650n
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_4650n|Color Laserjet 4650]]n printer in the "print shop" area
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.54
| Color LaserJet 4650dn
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_4650dn|Color Laserjet 4650]]dn printer in the "print shop" area
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.62
| CLP-620ND
| Big color laser printer
| Nate B
|-
| 10.13.0.75
| Project 1
| A super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.76
| Project 2
| Another super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.90
| First-Cam
| The Axis 206 network camera over the FIRST corner.
| Ted, [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.91
| Polycom-ATA
| Cisco ATA-186 VOIP adapter for the Polycom conference phone. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], [[User:Nate_lapt| NateW]]
|-
| 10.13.0.99
| printer
| [[HOWTO_Use_the_Laserjet_6P|Laserjet 6p]] in the rack.
| NateB
|-
| 10.13.0.100-245
| DHCP RANGE
| This is the DHCP range handed out by the firewall. Reservations possible
|}

= DNS =

The default DNS domain handed out for DHCP clients is i3detroit.local. If you have statically assigned a IP to something, and you want its hostname to be in DNS as your_hostname.i3detroit.local, we can add it to the local server. Post a request on the mailing list to have that taken care of.

= FAQ =

Q: Can we open a port in the firewall for my XYZ server?

:A: Probably not. The upstream bandwidth at the space is rather poor. You are welcome to suggest it, but be prepared to meet with significant resistance from your fellow members. Alternately, many of the members have COLO space that they might be willing to share. Make a proposal on the mailing list and turn on the charm.

Q: Let's get some better bandwidth at the space!

:A: We now have 15mbit down, 2 up from WideOpenWest. If [[The Joke That Never Gets Old|that's not enough pipe for you]], we don't know what to say.

Q: whérε dö ì ƒìñd ┼Hε wâΓεz åñd ┼HΣ p┌Ωn?

:A: Kid, you are up past your bedtime.

[[Category:Facility Information]]

Category:Networking

2012-12-28T16:16:20Z

Surferdudemi: Added second entry for CL4650dn at 10.13.0.54

= Wireless Network =

The SSID is '''''i3''''' , there is no encryption, this is considered a feature (for the moment).

You may occasionally see an SSID of '''''3302''''' or '''''1216''''', these are the FIRST Robot control WLANs. They are completely isolated networks and are probably not very interesting to you.

= LAN Addresses =

Internally, we are using the 10.13.0.0/16 supernet. It should sidestep most VPN overlap problems, should we establish any connections to other locations. At present, we are only using one subnet of this: 10.13.0.0/24.

== Subnet: 10.13.0.0/24 ==

=== Static Hosts ===

If you have something that needs to be attached to the network at i3Detroit, a static IP address can be assigned to it. This is useful in cases where something like a printer or a tool needs to be on the network with a known address that doesn't change. Most member and guest laptops, however, do not need one of these.
 If you have something that needs a fixed address but can't be configured for one (for some reason), something known as a DHCP reservation can be applied. Please contact [[User:Jcbender|Joe B]] or Nate W to help you out with this.
 
If you can, please try to create a wiki page with information about the thing you just attached to the network, and link to that from the IP address listing here.
 

'''Static hosts use the following settings:'''

{|
|-
| IP address
| Take an unused address from the table below. Document which address you used. When in doubt, ping first.
|-
| Subnet mask
| 255.255.255.0
|-
| Default Gateway
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS Server
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS domain name
| i3detroit.local
|-
| Time / NTP server
| 10.13.0.1 or 10.13.0.5 (The LAN switch is also an NTP server)
|}

 

=== IP Addresses in use ===
{|
|-
! Address
! Host
! Description
! Admin(s)
|-
| 10.13.0.1
| pfsense
| The firewall and dhcp server. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], Brad, [[User:Nate_lapt| NateW]], Ted and others.
|-
| 10.13.0.5
| [[i3switch01]]
| This is the Cisco 3750 Ethernet switch that drives i3! Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.6
| Cisco 1130 AP i3DetroitAP01
| This is primary access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.7
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP02
| This is the office space access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.8
| Asterisk
| We make phone calls with this. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Nate_lapt| Nate]].
|-
| 10.13.0.10
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]]
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.11
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]] IP #2 (required)
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.13
| Camera Server - This can be re-purposed
| Big brother is watching you. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.14
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP03
| This is the back-of-shop access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.15
| i3Debian - Skynet
| "The Debian Box" General-purpose sandbox. Not to be considered reliable or mission-critical
| Ted, [[User:Nate_lapt| NateW]], Eric, ToasterDan, Ross
|-
| 10.13.0.40
| [[i3Switch02]]
| i3 Second managed Ethernet switch in rack
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.50
| Plotter
| [[HOWTO use the Plotter|The HP DesignJet 300 ]]
| Roger, Rocco?
|-
| 10.13.0.51
| Laserjet-5si
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_5si|Laserjet 5si]] MX printer in the "print shop" area
| Rocco
|-
| 10.13.0.53
| Color LaserJet 4650n
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_4650n|Color Laserjet 4650n]] 4650n printer in the "print shop" area
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.54
| Color LaserJet 4650dn
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_4650dn|Color Laserjet 4650dn]] 4650dn printer in the "print shop" area
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.62
| CLP-620ND
| Big color laser printer
| Nate B
|-
| 10.13.0.75
| Project 1
| A super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.76
| Project 2
| Another super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.90
| First-Cam
| The Axis 206 network camera over the FIRST corner.
| Ted, [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.91
| Polycom-ATA
| Cisco ATA-186 VOIP adapter for the Polycom conference phone. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], [[User:Nate_lapt| NateW]]
|-
| 10.13.0.99
| printer
| [[HOWTO_Use_the_Laserjet_6P|Laserjet 6p]] in the rack.
| NateB
|-
| 10.13.0.100-245
| DHCP RANGE
| This is the DHCP range handed out by the firewall. Reservations possible
|}

= DNS =

The default DNS domain handed out for DHCP clients is i3detroit.local. If you have statically assigned a IP to something, and you want its hostname to be in DNS as your_hostname.i3detroit.local, we can add it to the local server. Post a request on the mailing list to have that taken care of.

= FAQ =

Q: Can we open a port in the firewall for my XYZ server?

:A: Probably not. The upstream bandwidth at the space is rather poor. You are welcome to suggest it, but be prepared to meet with significant resistance from your fellow members. Alternately, many of the members have COLO space that they might be willing to share. Make a proposal on the mailing list and turn on the charm.

Q: Let's get some better bandwidth at the space!

:A: We now have 15mbit down, 2 up from WideOpenWest. If [[The Joke That Never Gets Old|that's not enough pipe for you]], we don't know what to say.

Q: whérε dö ì ƒìñd ┼Hε wâΓεz åñd ┼HΣ p┌Ωn?

:A: Kid, you are up past your bedtime.

[[Category:Facility Information]]

Category:Networking

2012-12-13T15:35:34Z

Surferdudemi: /* IP Addresses in use */

= Wireless Network =

The SSID is '''''i3''''' , there is no encryption, this is considered a feature (for the moment).

You may occasionally see an SSID of '''''3302''''' or '''''1216''''', these are the FIRST Robot control WLANs. They are completely isolated networks and are probably not very interesting to you.

= LAN Addresses =

Internally, we are using the 10.13.0.0/16 supernet. It should sidestep most VPN overlap problems, should we establish any connections to other locations. At present, we are only using one subnet of this: 10.13.0.0/24.

== Subnet: 10.13.0.0/24 ==

=== Static Hosts ===

If you have something that needs to be attached to the network at i3Detroit, a static IP address can be assigned to it. This is useful in cases where something like a printer or a tool needs to be on the network with a known address that doesn't change. Most member and guest laptops, however, do not need one of these.
 If you have something that needs a fixed address but can't be configured for one (for some reason), something known as a DHCP reservation can be applied. Please contact [[User:Jcbender|Joe B]] or Nate W to help you out with this.
 
If you can, please try to create a wiki page with information about the thing you just attached to the network, and link to that from the IP address listing here.
 

'''Static hosts use the following settings:'''

{|
|-
| IP address
| Take an unused address from the table below. Document which address you used. When in doubt, ping first.
|-
| Subnet mask
| 255.255.255.0
|-
| Default Gateway
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS Server
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS domain name
| i3detroit.local
|-
| Time / NTP server
| 10.13.0.1 or 10.13.0.5 (The LAN switch is also an NTP server)
|}

 

=== IP Addresses in use ===
{|
|-
! Address
! Host
! Description
! Admin(s)
|-
| 10.13.0.1
| pfsense
| The firewall and dhcp server. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], Brad, Nate2, Ted and others.
|-
| 10.13.0.2
| i3-twitter-cam
| The dlink camera over the front door. Used for the twitterbot.
| Nate1, Nate2
|-
| 10.13.0.3
| wifi-AP
| linksys running ddwrt above door.
| Nate2
|-
| 10.13.0.4
| Wireless-AP
| DD-WRT access point. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| Nate, Nate2, [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.5
| [[i3switch01]]
| This is the Cisco 3750 Ethernet switch that drives i3! Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.6
| Cisco 1130 AP i3DetroitAP01
| This is primary access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.7
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP02
| This is the office space access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.8
| Asterisk
| We make phone calls with this. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| Nate2.
|-
| 10.13.0.10
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]]
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.11
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]] IP #2 (required)
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.13
| Camera Server
| Big brother is watching you. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.14
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP03
| This is the back-of-shop access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.15
| i3Debian
| "The Debian Box" General-purpose sandbox. Not to be considered reliable or mission-critical
| Ted, Nate2, Eric, ToasterDan, Ross
|-
| 10.13.0.16-24
| tbd
| "the virtualization machine" currently under construction
| Rocco
|-
| 10.13.0.27
| Mobile Podcast Recorder
| This is the mini computer mounted on the mobile podcast studio used for streaming and recording podcasts and shoutcast shows
| Bill
|-
| 10.13.0.40
| [[i3Switch02]]
| i3 Second managed Ethernet switch in rack
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.50
| Plotter
| [[HOWTO use the Plotter|The HP DesignJet 300 ]]
| Roger, Rocco?
|-
| 10.13.0.51
| Laserjet-5si
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_5si|Laserjet 5si]] MX printer in the "print shop" area
| Rocco
|-
| 10.13.0.53
| Color LaserJet 4650n
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_4650n|Color Laserjet 4650]] 4650n printer in the "print shop" area
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.62
| CLP-620ND
| Big color laser printer
| Nate B
|-
| 10.13.0.75
| Project 1
| A super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.76
| Project 2
| Another super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.90
| First-Cam
| The Axis 206 network camera over the FIRST corner.
| Ted, [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.91
| Polycom-ATA
| Cisco ATA-186 VOIP adapter for the Polycom conference phone. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], Nate2
|-
| 10.13.0.99
| printer
| [[HOWTO_Use_the_Laserjet_6P|Laserjet 6p]] in the rack.
| Nate1
|-
| 10.13.0.100-245
| DHCP RANGE
| This is the DHCP range handed out by the firewall. Reservations possible
|-
| 10.13.0.214
| Xbox
| Xbox in the rack.
| Nate2, Brad
|}

= DNS =

The default DNS domain handed out for DHCP clients is i3detroit.local. If you have statically assigned a IP to something, and you want its hostname to be in DNS as your_hostname.i3detroit.local, we can add it to the local server. Post a request on the mailing list to have that taken care of.

= FAQ =

Q: Can we open a port in the firewall for my XYZ server?

:A: Probably not. The upstream bandwidth at the space is rather poor. You are welcome to suggest it, but be prepared to meet with significant resistance from your fellow members. Alternately, many of the members have COLO space that they might be willing to share. Make a proposal on the mailing list and turn on the charm.

Q: Let's get some better bandwidth at the space!

:A: We now have 15mbit down, 2 up from WideOpenWest. If [[The Joke That Never Gets Old|that's not enough pipe for you]], we don't know what to say.

Q: whérε dö ì ƒìñd ┼Hε wâΓεz åñd ┼HΣ p┌Ωn?

:A: Kid, you are up past your bedtime.

[[Category:Facility Information]]

LaserCut

2012-11-19T04:31:38Z

Surferdudemi: Uploaded original LC5.3 manual and current working draft of new manual

LaserCut 5.3 is the software that was provided with the Jinan G Weike machines. This software converts 2D layouts to an MOL file that can be used directly on the engraver. The user can either do simple layouts directly in this software, or import layouts / drawings that were made in other software such as Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, AutoCAD, etc.
LaserCut requires a "dongle" or "soft dog" to save or export files. The software CD is located in the plastic bin on the shelves by the machine.

[[Media:LaserCut5UserManual.pdf | Here's the original manual]]

[[Media:LaserCut5AlternateManual.pdf | Here's a working copy of a more user-friendly manual]]

File:LaserCut5UserManual.pdf

2012-11-19T04:30:29Z

Surferdudemi: Original manual for the LaserCut v5.3 software

Original manual for the LaserCut v5.3 software

File:LaserCut5AlternateManual.pdf

2012-11-19T04:23:33Z

Surferdudemi: A new version of the manual for the LaserCut software, created from scratch.

A new version of the manual for the LaserCut software, created from scratch.

Laser Cutting and Etching

2012-11-18T17:47:49Z

Surferdudemi: Created page for process and materials

This page covers etching and cutting things using CO2 IR laser engraver machines such as Bumble Bee.

== Materials ==
The laser cutter can cut or etch a wide variety of materials.  However some are not possible to cut with our current set-up, and other materials are dangerous - they release fumes that damage humans or the laser cutter itself.

The laser can only etch some materials; it will not be able to cut through them.  See the materials list for more.

The key thing is not to try to cut:

#Metals
#Some materials that contain a high proportion of glue (such as particle board)
#Plastics or other materials that contain chlorine (such as all varieties of vinyl like PVC)

Please, do not cut any of the banned materials.

*[http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2010/07/laser-cut-vinyl-record-bad-idea/ Cutting vinyl: bad idea!]
*[http://www.cnczone.com/forums/laser_engraving_cutting_machines/56833-co2_laser_pvc_cutting.html Cutting PVC, Lexan, polycarbonates: bad idea!]

'''You are responsible for knowing exactly what your material is before you try to cut it.'''

'''Do not cut any materials marked as BANNED in the list below.  You would be liable for expensive damage to the machine or worse - you may release toxic fumes that could easily harm or kill!  ''' 

===Materials List===

{| cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" border="1" align="center" width="770" style=""
|-
! scope="col" | Material
! scope="col" | Cut?
! scope="col" | Etch?
! scope="col" | Mark?
! scope="col" | Power
! scope="col" | Speed
|-
| Acrylic (Plexiglass)
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
| 
| 
|-
| Ceramic
| No 
| Yes 
| Yes
| 
| 
|-
| Cloth 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| Delrin
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Glass
| No 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Coated Metals
| No 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Leather
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Human flesh (yes, this has come up)
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| 
| 
|-
| Marble
| No 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Matte Board
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Melamine
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Model Foam 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| Paper 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| Mylar 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| Metals - Painted 
| No 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Metals - Stainless Steel 
| No 
| No 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Particle board 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| 
| 
|-
| Plywood (limited) 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Polycarbonate (Lexan, etc.) 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| 
| 
|-
| Rubber (non-chlorine containing) 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| No 
| 
| 
|-
| Tile 
| No 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Vinyl or PVC of any kind 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| BANNED 
| 
| 
|-
| Wood, veneer 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|-
| Wood, natural 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| Yes 
| 
| 
|}

===Cutting Parts on the Laser Cutter===

When cutting parts on the laser, you will use the software to set the cutting speed and power.  If we have cut the material you are using before, you can refer to the power and speed recommendations in the table above.  Otherwise - experiment!  Bring some scrap material to do test cuts on until you find a cut you are satisfied with.  After that, record your power and speed settings in the table above. 

In general:

*Lower speeds allow for lower cutting power, which saves life on the laser tube.
*Lower speeds cut a wider "kerf" (thickness of cut) through the material.
*At higher speeds the cut is faster but requires higher power, which uses up the laser tube faster.
*High power on wood and paper may cause some discoloration near the cuts (browning color from burned material).

LaserCut

2012-11-18T17:25:28Z

Surferdudemi: Created page for LaserCut software

LaserCut 5.3 is the software that was provided with the Jinan G Weike machines. This software converts 2D layouts to an MOL file that can be used directly on the engraver. The user can either do simple layouts directly in this software, or import layouts / drawings that were made in other software such as Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, AutoCAD, etc.
LaserCut requires a "dongle" or "soft dog" to save or export files. The software CD is located in the plastic bin on the shelves by the machine.

[[File:Example.jpg|Here's the manual]] (not uploaded yet)

[[File:Example.jpg|Here's a working copy of a more user-friendly manual]] (not uploaded yet)

Electronics Room

2012-11-12T15:54:06Z

Surferdudemi: /* Arduino Stash */ Updated Arduino inventory

[[Image:NewERoomWithOverlays-output.jpg|thumb|400px]][[Image:I3detroit-eroom2.jpg|thumb|400px]] [[Image:I3detroit-eroom1.jpg|thumb|400px]]

== Welcome ==

Welcome to the electronics room! If you don't know what something does, please ask. The Zone Warden is [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]].

Tools in this zone:

[[EdsynLonerSolderingStation|Edsyn Loner soldering stations]] (the black ones directly above the bench)

[[WellerSolderingStation|Weller WLC-100 soldering stations]] (the orange ones on the top shelf)

[[TektronixTDS460|Tektronix TDS 460 digital oscilloscope]]

[[BusPirate]]

[[SaleaeLogic|Saleae Logic analyzer]]

[[XTronic4000|X-Tronic 4000 series hot-air rework station]]

[[MFJ269B|MFJ 269B Antenna analyzer]]

== Etiquette ==

As with all of i3, leave nothing on the workbenches. Your project can be stored in a labeled box in the electronics room if you are actively working on it and it is small. Otherwise, take it home or use regular member storage.

If you were trimming or stripping wires, consider sweeping before you leave.

== Store ==

The gray and gray/yellow drawers on the back wall are the electronics "store". These components are for anyone who has a use for them. Place payment in the drawer labeled "Gives us the money Lebowski" near the middle. The image on the right is an approximate map to the component locations as of late August 2012. Ping Nate B for an update if one appears to be needed.

Some drawers are now labeled with prices, usually a cost "C" which is what it costs us to restock, and a second value for comparison, like "RS" for Radio Shack's price on an equivalent item. These are just FYI, and all we ask is that you cover the cost. Any markup beyond that is up to you, but you can be pretty generous and still save a bundle compared to retail. A buck here and there helps the selection continue to grow!

If there's no cost label and you don't know what a component goes for, find it on http://mouser.com/ and add 10% to cover shipping. If you need change, break your bills with change from the cup in the fridge. However, these funds go to different places, so don't just drop money in the wrong cup.

If you wish to donate components to the store, feel free to do so. If it is clear where they belong, just drop them in, adding labels as necessary. Avoid leaving anything in an unlabeled drawer or bin. If you don't know where something belongs, ask [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]], or leave a note indicating your intent and he will find or make a place so the parts can remain organized.

Reference prices for bulk items:
Rather than tagging each value individually...
{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
|-
| 1/4-watt resistor:
| 2c
|-
| 1/2-watt resistor:
| 5c
|-
| High-wattage resistors:
| Ask!
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, red/green/yellow
| 5c
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, white or blue
| 10c
|-
| High-power LEDs
| Ask!
|-
| Any ceramic cap
| 5c
|-
| Electrolytic caps
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| Zener diodes, up to 1W
| 10c
|-
| 1n4xxx diodes
| 5c
|-
| Other diodes
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 1 position
| 2c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 2 positions
| 15c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 3+ positions
| 25c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin crimp pins
| 7c
|-
|}

more to come...

== Acquisition ==

Parts on this list will be ordered ASAP.

{| border="1"
|-
| Who wants it?
| What is it?
| Quantity desired
| Qty Ordered
| Mouser part #
| Digi-key part #
| notes
|-
| nate b / trevor c
| wide-ass Kapton tape
| 1
| 0
|
|
| http://store.makerbot.com/kapton-120-mm-tape.html
|}

== Arduino Stash ==

If you need an Arduino on short notice at a decent price, please contact Roger S. Here's a listing of current inventory:

{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
! Qty Avail
|-
| Uno R1
| $14
| 1
|-
| Uno R3
| $16
| 6
|-
| Mega 2650 R1
| $22
| 1
|-
| EthShield
| $19
| 2
|-
| Motor Control Shield
| $9
| 3
|-
| Yellow I2C LCD Module
| $13
| 2
|-
| Breadboard Power Supply
| $3
| 2
|-
| 3-Axis Accelerometer
| $6
| 9
|-
|}

The motor control shield is this one: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/

== Reference ==

What's that? A collaboratively-edited collection of parts that hobbyists actually find useful? Yes! Behold, the Partfinder! http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/partfinder

There's a trove of 7400-series datasheets here: http://www.skot9000.com/logic-datasheets/

Nate B's personal bookmarks on the subject are here: http://delicious.com/myself248/electronics

Please feel free to edit this section and add more links!

[[Category:Electronics Shop]][[Category:Equipment]]

Electronics Room

2012-11-12T05:40:28Z

Surferdudemi: /* Arduino Stash */ Updated inventory

[[Image:NewERoomWithOverlays-output.jpg|thumb|400px]][[Image:I3detroit-eroom2.jpg|thumb|400px]] [[Image:I3detroit-eroom1.jpg|thumb|400px]]

== Welcome ==

Welcome to the electronics room! If you don't know what something does, please ask. The Zone Warden is [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]].

Tools in this zone:

[[EdsynLonerSolderingStation|Edsyn Loner soldering stations]] (the black ones directly above the bench)

[[WellerSolderingStation|Weller WLC-100 soldering stations]] (the orange ones on the top shelf)

[[TektronixTDS460|Tektronix TDS 460 digital oscilloscope]]

[[BusPirate]]

[[SaleaeLogic|Saleae Logic analyzer]]

[[XTronic4000|X-Tronic 4000 series hot-air rework station]]

[[MFJ269B|MFJ 269B Antenna analyzer]]

== Etiquette ==

As with all of i3, leave nothing on the workbenches. Your project can be stored in a labeled box in the electronics room if you are actively working on it and it is small. Otherwise, take it home or use regular member storage.

If you were trimming or stripping wires, consider sweeping before you leave.

== Store ==

The gray and gray/yellow drawers on the back wall are the electronics "store". These components are for anyone who has a use for them. Place payment in the drawer labeled "Gives us the money Lebowski" near the middle. The image on the right is an approximate map to the component locations as of late August 2012. Ping Nate B for an update if one appears to be needed.

Some drawers are now labeled with prices, usually a cost "C" which is what it costs us to restock, and a second value for comparison, like "RS" for Radio Shack's price on an equivalent item. These are just FYI, and all we ask is that you cover the cost. Any markup beyond that is up to you, but you can be pretty generous and still save a bundle compared to retail. A buck here and there helps the selection continue to grow!

If there's no cost label and you don't know what a component goes for, find it on http://mouser.com/ and add 10% to cover shipping. If you need change, break your bills with change from the cup in the fridge. However, these funds go to different places, so don't just drop money in the wrong cup.

If you wish to donate components to the store, feel free to do so. If it is clear where they belong, just drop them in, adding labels as necessary. Avoid leaving anything in an unlabeled drawer or bin. If you don't know where something belongs, ask [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]], or leave a note indicating your intent and he will find or make a place so the parts can remain organized.

Reference prices for bulk items:
Rather than tagging each value individually...
{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
|-
| 1/4-watt resistor:
| 2c
|-
| 1/2-watt resistor:
| 5c
|-
| High-wattage resistors:
| Ask!
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, red/green/yellow
| 5c
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, white or blue
| 10c
|-
| High-power LEDs
| Ask!
|-
| Any ceramic cap
| 5c
|-
| Electrolytic caps
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| Zener diodes, up to 1W
| 10c
|-
| 1n4xxx diodes
| 5c
|-
| Other diodes
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 1 position
| 2c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 2 positions
| 15c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 3+ positions
| 25c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin crimp pins
| 7c
|-
|}

more to come...

== Acquisition ==

Parts on this list will be ordered ASAP.

{| border="1"
|-
| Who wants it?
| What is it?
| Quantity desired
| Qty Ordered
| Mouser part #
| Digi-key part #
| notes
|-
| nate b / trevor c
| wide-ass Kapton tape
| 1
| 0
|
|
| http://store.makerbot.com/kapton-120-mm-tape.html
|}

== Arduino Stash ==

If you need an Arduino on short notice at a decent price, please contact Roger S. Here's a listing of current inventory:

{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
! Qty Avail
|-
| Uno R3
| $16
| 8
|-
| Mega 2650 R1
| $22
| 6
|-
| EthShield
| $19
| 2
|-
| Motor Control Shield
| $9
| 3
|-
| Yellow I2C LCD Module
| $13
| 2
|-
| Breadboard Power Supply
| $3
| 6
|-
| 3-Axis Accelerometer
| $6
| 9
|-
|}

The motor control shield is this one: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/

== Reference ==

What's that? A collaboratively-edited collection of parts that hobbyists actually find useful? Yes! Behold, the Partfinder! http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/partfinder

There's a trove of 7400-series datasheets here: http://www.skot9000.com/logic-datasheets/

Nate B's personal bookmarks on the subject are here: http://delicious.com/myself248/electronics

Please feel free to edit this section and add more links!

[[Category:Electronics Shop]][[Category:Equipment]]

Template:Equipment

2012-11-09T00:42:30Z

Surferdudemi: Protected "Template:Equipment": Aviod accidental changes to template ([edit=sysop] (indefinite) [move=sysop] (indefinite))

<noinclude>
= How to create an equipment page: =

Include the ''Equipment'' Template like so:

<pre>
{{Equipment

| Name = Name of the tool goes here

| Intro = Some text to describe the equipment goes here.
* You can use any wiki formatting that you wish:
* Like a bulleted list

| Owner = Owner's Name(s) goes here, including percentage

| StorageLocation = Tell people where to find it, and where to put it away.

| MakeModel = Acme CNC Yak Shaver - Model 5000 deluxe

| PartNumber =

| Documents = Link(s) to on-line documentation

| LooksLike = Link(s) to picture(s) of it

| Rules =

Put the rules that govern the use of this tool here.
* Who is allowed to use it?
* Is there any traning required before use?

| Instructions =

You can write the instructions here. Or maybe add a link
to another page or the user's manual.

| OtherReferences =

Add links to any other sources that pertain to this equipment.

| MaintenanceInfo =

Does this thing need it's oil changed every 30 cycles?
People need to know!

| ToDos =

What problems does this thing have, or are there improvements that would make it better.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}
</pre>

</noinclude><includeonly>
__NOTOC__
__NOEDITSECTION__
{{ambox
|nocat=true
| type = notice
| text = Remember to always; '''clean up''' and '''return the equipment to a fully functional, safe state''' before you leave. This includes returning any safety mechanisms to there fully working order on the equipment.
}}
<blockquote style="background-color: lightgrey; border: solid thin grey; float: right; padding: 10px">
{{QRcodeForThisPage}}
</blockquote>
={{{Name}}}=
{{{Intro|}}}
== Basic Info ==
* Ownership: {{{Owner|''not specified'}}}
* Location: {{{StorageLocation|''not specified'}}}
* What it looks like: 
{{{LooksLike|[[File:PhotoNeeded.png|100px]]}}}
== Manufacturer Information ==
* Make/Model: {{{MakeModel|''not specified''}}}
* Part Number: {{{PartNumber|''not specified''}}}
==Documentation==
{{{Documentation|''not specified''}}}
== Rules ==
{{{Rules|Be excellent to each other!}}}
== Instructions ==
{{{Instructions|''not specified''}}}
== Other References ==
{{{OtherReferences|''not specified''}}}
== Maintenance ==
{{{MaintenanceInfo|''not specified''}}}
== Things that Need to be Done ==
{{{ToDos|''not specified''}}}
== FAQs ==
{{{FAQs|''none yet''}}}
[[Category:Equipment]]
</includeonly>

Laser Engraver - Wolverine

2012-11-09T00:40:26Z

Surferdudemi: Updated a few things

{{Equipment

| Name = Wolverine

| Owner = [[User:Surferdudemi|Roger Slykhouse]]

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1290

| Documents =
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.

Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

* i3 Members may use this machine with permission of the owner.
* You must be trained to use this machine.
* There is a consumables fee for this machine of $15 per actual hour of laser-on time.

| Instructions =

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry.
# Turn powerstrip for the chiller and blower on. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| OtherReferences =

Two good sources of info:
http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/vbul/forum/forum.php
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

| MaintenanceInfo =

We do not know the maintenance schedule for this machine yet. The tube is warranted for 10 months and eventually will need to be replaced. The glass should be cleaned regularly, and the screw drives for the Z-axis should be checked for lubrication.

| ToDos =

Develop a list of materials, with speed and power settings for various cutting depths.
Add bumpers under the lid.
Add stringer gas shocks so the lid does not slam shut.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

File:MPC6515Manual.pdf

2012-11-08T23:56:45Z

Surferdudemi: The technical manual for the laser machine controller board.

The technical manual for the laser machine controller board.

Laser Engraver - Wolverine

2012-11-08T21:02:16Z

Surferdudemi: Added consumables fee to Rules section

{{Equipment

| Name = Wolverine

| Owner = [[Roger Slykhouse]]

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1290

| Documents =
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.

Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

* i3 Members may use this machine with permission of the owner.
* You must be trained to use this machine.
* There is a consumables fee for this machine of $15 per actual hour of laser-on time.

| Instructions =

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry.
# Turn powerstrip for the chiller and blower on. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| OtherReferences =

Two good sources of info:
http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/vbul/forum/forum.php
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

| MaintenanceInfo =

We do not know the maintenance schedule for this machine yet. The tube is warranted for 10 months and eventually will need to be replaced. The glass should be cleaned regularly, and the screw drives for the Z-axis should be checked for lubrication.

| ToDos =

Develop a list of materials, with speed and power settings for various cutting depths.
Add bumpers under the lid.
Add stringer gas shocks so the lid does not slam shut.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

Laser Engraver - Wolverine

2012-11-08T20:25:11Z

Surferdudemi: Added separate page for this machine.

{{Equipment

| Name = Wolverine

| Owner = [[Roger Slykhouse]]

| StorageLocation = West wall, you can't miss it.

| MakeModel = Jinan G. Weike / WKLaser LC1290

| Documents =
The setup manual, [[File:OPERATIONAL_MANUAL_OF_MACHINE_xin_USB.pdf]] is worth reading, if only for a laugh.

Inside the cutter, a [http://www.leetro.com/english/sale/20.html Leetro MPC6515 control board] coordinates the motors and laser firing. Its [http://www.leetro.com/english/down/MPC6515%20%20Manual.pdf documentation] is freely downloadable.

So much grief has arisen from the awful state of the documentation and software, that an entire [http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/phpBB3/index.php Chinese laser support forum] has arisen for the hapless owners of these machines help each other.

| LooksLike =
[[File:Laser_cutter_110212.jpeg|200px|thumb|left|alt text]]

| Rules =

Put the rules that govern the use of this tool here.
* i3 Members may use this machine with permission of the owner
* You must be trained to use this machine.

| Instructions =

Time-of-cut checklist:
# Place material (square to edge of honeycomb).
# Cover inactive honeycomb area except an "intake" in front of the material. This directs smoke away from the gantry.
# Turn powerstrip for the chiller and blower on. This should bring up the chiller and air-assist pump.
# Push gently on rubber hose to trigger chiller alarm, verifying that it's awake.
# Turn keyswitch to on, and wait for boot and home to complete.
# Jog head over to start of cut.
# Grab a focus-chip and keep one hand over emergency-stop while setting Z.
# Wave hand under head and verify that air-assist is blowing.
# Download design from LaserCut software.
# Keep one hand over emergency-stop while using Test to check boundaries.
# Turn on the exhaust fan.
# Lift the fire extinguisher and set it back down. This verifies that your muscle-memory knows where it is.
# Press Start.
# DO NOT WALK AWAY. See http://www.thinkhaus.org/2011/04/03/lazzoring-is-serious-business/ for why.

| OtherReferences =

Two good sources of info:
http://www.chineselasersupportforum.com/vbul/forum/forum.php
http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/ManualsTutorials.html

| MaintenanceInfo =

We do not know the maintenance schedule for this machine yet. The tube is warranted for 10 months and eventually will need to be replaced. The glass should be cleaned regularly, and the screw drives for the Z-axis should be checked for lubrication.

| ToDos =

Develop a list of materials, with speed and power settings for various cutting depths.
Add bumpers under the lid.
Add stringer gas shocks so the lid does not slam shut.

| FAQs =

A list of commonly asked questions

}}

Electronics Room

2012-09-22T15:46:01Z

Surferdudemi: /* Arduino Stash */ Added more boards and updated prices (cheaper!) and inventory counts

[[Image:NewERoomWithOverlays-output.jpg|thumb|400px]][[Image:I3detroit-eroom2.jpg|thumb|400px]] [[Image:I3detroit-eroom1.jpg|thumb|400px]]

== Welcome ==

Welcome to the electronics room! If you don't know what something does, please ask. The Zone Warden is [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]].

Tools in this zone:

[[EdsynLonerSolderingStation|Edsyn Loner soldering stations]] (the black ones directly above the bench)

[[WellerSolderingStation|Weller WLC-100 soldering stations]] (the orange ones on the top shelf)

[[TektronixTDS460|Tektronix TDS 460 digital oscilloscope]]

[[BusPirate]]

[[SaleaeLogic|Saleae Logic analyzer]]

[[XTronic4000|X-Tronic 4000 series hot-air rework station]]

[[MFJ269B|MFJ 269B Antenna analyzer]]

== Etiquette ==

As with all of i3, leave nothing on the workbenches. Your project can be stored in a labeled box in the electronics room if you are actively working on it and it is small. Otherwise, take it home or use regular member storage.

If you were trimming or stripping wires, consider sweeping before you leave.

== Store ==

The gray and gray/yellow drawers on the back wall are the electronics "store". These components are for anyone who has a use for them. Place payment in the drawer labeled "Gives us the money Lebowski" near the middle. The image on the right is an approximate map to the component locations as of late August 2012. Ping Nate B for an update if one appears to be needed.

Some drawers are now labeled with prices, usually a cost "C" which is what it costs us to restock, and a second value for comparison, like "RS" for Radio Shack's price on an equivalent item. These are just FYI, and all we ask is that you cover the cost. Any markup beyond that is up to you, but you can be pretty generous and still save a bundle compared to retail. A buck here and there helps the selection continue to grow!

If there's no cost label and you don't know what a component goes for, find it on http://mouser.com/ and add 10% to cover shipping. If you need change, break your bills with change from the cup in the fridge. However, these funds go to different places, so don't just drop money in the wrong cup.

If you wish to donate components to the store, feel free to do so. If it is clear where they belong, just drop them in, adding labels as necessary. Avoid leaving anything in an unlabeled drawer or bin. If you don't know where something belongs, ask [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]], or leave a note indicating your intent and he will find or make a place so the parts can remain organized.

Reference prices for bulk items:
Rather than tagging each value individually...
{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
|-
| 1/4-watt resistor:
| 2c
|-
| 1/2-watt resistor:
| 5c
|-
| High-wattage resistors:
| Ask!
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, red/green/yellow
| 5c
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, white or blue
| 10c
|-
| High-power LEDs
| Ask!
|-
| Any ceramic cap
| 5c
|-
| Electrolytic caps
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| Zener diodes, up to 1W
| 10c
|-
| 1n4xxx diodes
| 5c
|-
| Other diodes
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 1 position
| 2c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 2 positions
| 15c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 3+ positions
| 25c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin crimp pins
| 7c
|-
|}

more to come...

== Acquisition ==

Parts on this list will be ordered ASAP.

{| border="1"
|-
| Who wants it?
| What is it?
| Quantity desired
| Qty Ordered
| Mouser part #
| Digi-key part #
| notes
|-
| nate b / trevor c
| wide-ass Kapton tape
| 1
| 0
|
|
| http://store.makerbot.com/kapton-120-mm-tape.html
|}

== Arduino Stash ==

If you need an Arduino on short notice at a decent price, please contact Roger S. Here's a listing of current inventory:

{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
! Qty Avail
|-
| Uno R3
| $16
| 13
|-
| Mega 2650 R1
| $22
| 6
|-
| EthShield
| $19
| 3
|-
| Motor Control Shield
| $9
| 3
|-
| Yellow I2C LCD Module
| $13
| 6
|-
| Breadboard Power Supply
| $3
| 9
|-
| 3-Axis Accelerometer
| $6
| 9
|-
|}

The motor control shield is this one: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/

== Reference ==

There's a trove of 7400-series datasheets here: http://www.skot9000.com/logic-datasheets/

Nate B's personal bookmarks on the subject are here: http://delicious.com/myself248/electronics

Please feel free to edit this section and add more links!

[[Category:Electronics Shop]][[Category:Equipment]]

Category:Networking

2012-09-19T19:22:51Z

Surferdudemi: /* IP Addresses in use */ Added a couple of static addresses for projects

= Wireless Network =

The SSID is '''''i3''''' , there is no encryption, this is considered a feature (for the moment).

You may occasionally see an SSID of '''''3302''''' or '''''1216''''', these are the FIRST Robot control WLANs. They are completely isolated networks and are probably not very interesting to you.

= LAN Addresses =

Internally, we are using the 10.13.0.0/16 supernet. It should sidestep most VPN overlap problems, should we establish any connections to other locations. At present, we are only using one subnet of this: 10.13.0.0/24.

== Subnet: 10.13.0.0/24 ==

=== Static Hosts ===

If you have something that needs to be attached to the network at i3Detroit, a static IP address can be assigned to it. This is useful in cases where something like a printer or a tool needs to be on the network with a known address that doesn't change. Most member and guest laptops, however, do not need one of these.
 If you have something that needs a fixed address but can't be configured for one (for some reason), something known as a DHCP reservation can be applied. Please contact [[User:Jcbender|Joe B]] or Nate W to help you out with this.
 
If you can, please try to create a wiki page with information about the thing you just attached to the network, and link to that from the IP address listing here.
 

'''Static hosts use the following settings:'''

{|
|-
| IP address
| Take an unused address from the table below. Document which address you used. When in doubt, ping first.
|-
| Subnet mask
| 255.255.255.0
|-
| Default Gateway
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS Server
| 10.13.0.1
|-
| DNS domain name
| i3detroit.local
|-
| Time / NTP server
| 10.13.0.1 or 10.13.0.5 (The LAN switch is also an NTP server)
|}

 

=== IP Addresses in use ===
{|
|-
! Address
! Host
! Description
! Admin(s)
|-
| 10.13.0.1
| pfsense
| The firewall and dhcp server. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], Brad, Nate2, Ted and others.
|-
| 10.13.0.2
| i3-twitter-cam
| The dlink camera over the front door. Used for the twitterbot.
| Nate1, Nate2
|-
| 10.13.0.3
| wifi-AP
| linksys running ddwrt above door.
| Nate2
|-
| 10.13.0.4
| Wireless-AP
| DD-WRT access point. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| Nate, Nate2, [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.5
| [[i3switch01]]
| This is the Cisco 3750 Ethernet switch that drives i3! Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.6
| Cisco 1130 AP i3DetroitAP01
| This is primary access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.7
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP02
| This is the office space access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.8
| Asterisk
| We make phone calls with this. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| Nate2.
|-
| 10.13.0.10
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]]
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.11
| [[Wireless LAN Controller]] IP #2 (required)
| We do nifty wireless things with this. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.13
| Camera Server
| Big brother is watching you. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.14
| Cisco 1130 i3DetroitAP03
| This is the back-of-shop access point for i3Detroit. Not a toy. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.15
| i3Debian
| "The Debian Box" General-purpose sandbox. Not to be considered reliable or mission-critical
| Ted, Nate2, Eric, ToasterDan, Ross
|-
| 10.13.0.16-24
| tbd
| "the virtualization machine" currently under construction
| Rocco
|-
| 10.13.0.27
| Mobile Podcast Recorder
| This is the mini computer mounted on the mobile podcast studio used for streaming and recording podcasts and shoutcast shows
| Bill
|-
| 10.13.0.40
| [[i3Switch02]]
| i3 Second managed Ethernet switch in rack
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.50
| Plotter
| [[HOWTO use the Plotter|The HP DesignJet 300 ]]
| Roger, Rocco?
|-
| 10.13.0.51
| Laserjet-5si
| [[HOWTO_use_the_Laserjet_5si|Laserjet 5si]] MX printer in the "print shop" area
| Rocco
|-
| 10.13.0.62
| CLP-620ND
| Big color laser printer
| Nate B
|-
| 10.13.0.75
| Project 1
| A super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.76
| Project 2
| Another super-secret project
| [[User:Surferdudemi| RogerS]]
|-
| 10.13.0.90
| First-Cam
| The Axis 206 network camera over the FIRST corner.
| Ted, [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]]
|-
| 10.13.0.91
| Polycom-ATA
| Cisco ATA-186 VOIP adapter for the Polycom conference phone. ''Nicht für gefingerpöken''
| [[User:Jcbender| JCBender]], Nate2
|-
| 10.13.0.99
| printer
| [[HOWTO_Use_the_Laserjet_6P|Laserjet 6p]] in the rack.
| Nate1
|-
| 10.13.0.100-245
| DHCP RANGE
| This is the DHCP range handed out by the firewall. Reservations possible
|-
| 10.13.0.214
| Xbox
| Xbox in the rack.
| Nate2, Brad
|}

= DNS =

The default DNS domain handed out for DHCP clients is i3detroit.local. If you have statically assigned a IP to something, and you want its hostname to be in DNS as your_hostname.i3detroit.local, we can add it to the local server. Post a request on the mailing list to have that taken care of.

= FAQ =

Q: Can we open a port in the firewall for my XYZ server?

:A: Probably not. The upstream bandwidth at the space is rather poor. You are welcome to suggest it, but be prepared to meet with significant resistance from your fellow members. Alternately, many of the members have COLO space that they might be willing to share. Make a proposal on the mailing list and turn on the charm.

Q: Let's get some better bandwidth at the space!

:A: We now have 15mbit down, 2 up from WideOpenWest. If [[The Joke That Never Gets Old|that's not enough pipe for you]], we don't know what to say.

Q: whérε dö ì ƒìñd ┼Hε wâΓεz åñd ┼HΣ p┌Ωn?

:A: Kid, you are up past your bedtime.

[[Category:Facility Information]]

Electronics Room

2012-09-14T18:19:01Z

Surferdudemi: Added section with Arduino inventory

[[Image:NewERoomWithOverlays-output.jpg|thumb|400px]][[Image:I3detroit-eroom2.jpg|thumb|400px]] [[Image:I3detroit-eroom1.jpg|thumb|400px]]

== Welcome ==

Welcome to the electronics room! If you don't know what something does, please ask. The Zone Warden is [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]].

Tools in this zone:

[[EdsynLonerSolderingStation|Edsyn Loner soldering stations]] (the black ones directly above the bench)

[[WellerSolderingStation|Weller WLC-100 soldering stations]] (the orange ones on the top shelf)

[[TektronixTDS460|Tektronix TDS 460 digital oscilloscope]]

[[BusPirate]]

[[SaleaeLogic|Saleae Logic analyzer]]

[[XTronic4000|X-Tronic 4000 series hot-air rework station]]

[[MFJ269B|MFJ 269B Antenna analyzer]]

== Etiquette ==

As with all of i3, leave nothing on the workbenches. Your project can be stored in a labeled box in the electronics room if you are actively working on it and it is small. Otherwise, take it home or use regular member storage.

If you were trimming or stripping wires, consider sweeping before you leave.

== Store ==

The gray and gray/yellow drawers on the back wall are the electronics "store". These components are for anyone who has a use for them. Place payment in the drawer labeled "Gives us the money Lebowski" near the middle. The image on the right is an approximate map to the component locations as of late August 2012. Ping Nate B for an update if one appears to be needed.

Some drawers are now labeled with prices, usually a cost "C" which is what it costs us to restock, and a second value for comparison, like "RS" for Radio Shack's price on an equivalent item. These are just FYI, and all we ask is that you cover the cost. Any markup beyond that is up to you, but you can be pretty generous and still save a bundle compared to retail. A buck here and there helps the selection continue to grow!

If there's no cost label and you don't know what a component goes for, find it on http://mouser.com/ and add 10% to cover shipping. If you need change, break your bills with change from the cup in the fridge. However, these funds go to different places, so don't just drop money in the wrong cup.

If you wish to donate components to the store, feel free to do so. If it is clear where they belong, just drop them in, adding labels as necessary. Avoid leaving anything in an unlabeled drawer or bin. If you don't know where something belongs, ask [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]], or leave a note indicating your intent and he will find or make a place so the parts can remain organized.

Reference prices for bulk items:
Rather than tagging each value individually...
{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
|-
| 1/4-watt resistor:
| 2c
|-
| 1/2-watt resistor:
| 5c
|-
| High-wattage resistors:
| Ask!
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, red/green/yellow
| 5c
|-
| 3 or 5mm LED, white or blue
| 10c
|-
| High-power LEDs
| Ask!
|-
| Any ceramic cap
| 5c
|-
| Electrolytic caps
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| Zener diodes, up to 1W
| 10c
|-
| 1n4xxx diodes
| 5c
|-
| Other diodes
| Use Mouser, or ask
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 1 position
| 2c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 2 positions
| 15c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin housings, 3+ positions
| 25c
|-
| 0.100" Harwin crimp pins
| 7c
|-
|}

more to come...

== Acquisition ==

Parts on this list will be ordered ASAP.

{| border="1"
|-
| Who wants it?
| What is it?
| Quantity desired
| Qty Ordered
| Mouser part #
| Digi-key part #
| notes
|-
| nate b / trevor c
| wide-ass Kapton tape
| 1
| 0
|
|
| http://store.makerbot.com/kapton-120-mm-tape.html
|}

== Arduino Stash ==

If you need an Arduino on short notice at a decent price, please contact Roger S. Here's a listing of current inventory:

{| border="1"
|-
! Item
! Price
! Qty Avail
|-
| Uno R3
| $25
| 3
|-
| Mega 2650 R1
| $25
| 1
|-
| EthShield
| $24
| 1
|-
| Motor Control Shield
| $9
| 3
|-
|}

The motor control shield is this one: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/

== Reference ==

There's a trove of 7400-series datasheets here: http://www.skot9000.com/logic-datasheets/

Nate B's personal bookmarks on the subject are here: http://delicious.com/myself248/electronics

Please feel free to edit this section and add more links!

[[Category:Electronics Shop]][[Category:Equipment]]

Penguicon Ribbon

2012-04-28T20:49:24Z

Surferdudemi: Added badge instructions page

Here are the instructions for the electronic LED ribbon / hackerspace badge that was available at Penguicon 2012!

[[File:PenguiconBadgeInstr2012.pdf]]

File:PenguiconBadgeInstr2012.pdf

2012-04-28T20:48:10Z

Surferdudemi: Instructions for the badge / ribbon

Instructions for the badge / ribbon

Progromino

2012-04-27T06:51:57Z

Surferdudemi: Added longer description of the new code and limitations of using LEDs as light sensors.

We don't need no stinking 555 timers! We have an AVR in the same form-factor!

Origin of the name: Programmable Domino = Progromino (pro-graa'-min-o)

The goal of this project is to design an electronic domino using a small AVR chip and minimal components, but at the same time provide a huge amount of flexibility and capability. Here's the 555 version:

http://relwin.hackhut.com/2011/03/01/555-timer-contest-entry/

And here's the current design:

[[File:progromino.png|600px|thumb|left|Schematic for board]]

TODO

1. After reviewing the CR2032 spec, looks like it's not sufficient to drive 60 ma - the maximum current required with 3 LEDs on. Fallback is to use 3xAAA batteries, but that's bigger than the device itself! There must be a better solution for powering it.

2. For the initial version, was not able to incorporate the switch (too expensive for switch and PCB space). Need to come up with a suitable H/W and S/W solution. Springy wire? Using ATTiny44A provided a complete SPI interface and one extra unused pin!

3. Write some more demo programs. Ideas:
* Add a delay of about 1/2 second between inputs and outputs
* Switch colors from input to output (e.g., red input turns on green output)
* Demo mode where outputs are turned on in different sequences
* Use an averaging algorithm to adjust to ambient light conditions

==Design==
This design uses LEDs as inputs. The LEDs are chosen to minimize crosstalk between colors by taking advantage of the fact that LEDs respond to wavelengths shorter than those they emit. Hence the blue sense LED is a slightly longer wavelength than the blue LED output. The green sense LED is more yellow, so it will respond to green light (and blue light, but not red). The red sense LED responds to all of the colors, unfortunately. Still there is some separation, and if you line up a series of Progrominos, you'll find that the directionality as well as this separation by wavelength is pretty effective.

Here's the latest source code and programming file for the basic operation. This new version uses an averaging algorithm to determine when the light level on each LED has increased, rather than using the input voltage level directly. It also implements a way to flush the sample and hold cap internal to the processor, so that the input from one LED does not bleed over to the next sample for the next LED. This is accomplished by setting the inputs to outputs and setting them to low. This discharges the S&H capacitance. Then the pins are set back to inputs and the input buffers are disconnected, allowing the S&H to charge before the ADC takes the next sample. Timer 1 is used to set the charge time.

[[File:ProgrominoDelta.asm]]

[[File:ProgrominoDelta.hex]]

Why all this gyration? As it turns out, although LEDs output a voltage that's related to the input light level, they don't generate much current. The S&H for the ADC on the microcontroller is designed for an input impedance of about 10K. This provides enough current to charge the internal capacitor quickly (the S&H has a capacitor that holds the voltage level while the conversion takes place). LEDs look like a much higher impedance and thus require a longer time to charge the S&H. So instead of micro seconds to sample the LED light level, it takes milliseconds. Experiments with an Arduino indicate that something along the lines of 250 ms is good, but shorter times can be adequate if you're just looking for some amount of change and not an accurate measurement of light level.

==What to do With Them==
The bill of material ended up being fairly expensive to have a whole bunch of these lined up, though it would look very cool. To reduce the cost of having a large light show, the Progrominoes can be combined with a bunch of cheaper Le Dominoux in an arrangement like a model railroad track, where the Progrominoes act as switches between tracks of Le Dominoux.

Progromino

2012-04-27T06:31:10Z

Surferdudemi: /* Design */