Difference between revisions of "Category:Electronics Shop"
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== Welcome ==
== Welcome ==
Welcome to the electronics
Welcome to the electronics ! If you don't know what something does, please ask. The Zone Warden is [[User:Nbezanson|Nate B]]. The zone warden sign is here: http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:ERoomZonePosterWithMoney.docx
Tools in this zone:
Tools in this zone:
Revision as of 23:28, 26 April 2014
Welcome to the electronics lab! If you don't know what something does, please ask. The Zone Warden is Nate B. The zone warden sign is here: http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=File:ERoomZonePosterWithMoney.docx
Tools in this zone:
Edsyn Loner soldering stations (the black ones directly above the bench)
Weller WLC-100 soldering stations (the orange ones on the top shelf)
As with all of i3, leave nothing on the workbenches. Your project can be stored in a labeled box in the electronics room if you are actively working on it and it is small. Otherwise, take it home or use regular member storage.
If you were trimming or stripping wires, consider sweeping before you leave.
The gray and gray/yellow drawers on the back wall are the electronics "store". These components are for anyone who has a use for them. Place payment in the drawer labeled "Gives us the money Lebowski" near the middle. The image on the right is an approximate map to the component locations as of late August 2012. Ping Nate B for an update if one appears to be needed.
Some drawers are now labeled with prices, usually a cost "C" which is what it costs us to restock, and a second value for comparison, like "RS" for Radio Shack's price on an equivalent item. These are just FYI, and all we ask is that you cover the cost. Any markup beyond that is up to you, but you can be pretty generous and still save a bundle compared to retail. A buck here and there helps the selection continue to grow!
If there's no cost label and you don't know what a component goes for, find it on http://mouser.com/ and add 10% to cover shipping. If you need change, break your bills with change from the cup in the fridge. However, these funds go to different places, so don't just drop money in the wrong cup.
If you wish to donate components to the store, feel free to do so. If it is clear where they belong, just drop them in, adding labels as necessary. Avoid leaving anything in an unlabeled drawer or bin. If you don't know where something belongs, ask Nate B, or leave a note indicating your intent and he will find or make a place so the parts can remain organized.
Reference prices for bulk items: Rather than tagging each value individually...
|3 or 5mm LED, red/green/yellow||5c|
|3 or 5mm LED, white or blue||10c|
|Any ceramic cap||5c|
|Electrolytic caps||Use Mouser, or ask|
|Zener diodes, up to 1W||10c|
|Other diodes||Use Mouser, or ask|
|0.100" Harwin housings, 1 position||2c|
|0.100" Harwin housings, 2 positions||15c|
|0.100" Harwin housings, 3+ positions||25c|
|0.100" Harwin crimp pins||7c|
more to come...
Parts on this list will be ordered ASAP.
|Who wants it?||What is it?||Quantity desired||Qty Ordered||Mouser part #||Digi-key part #||notes|
|e-lab||Harwin single female crimp terminals||1000||855-M20-1180042||DK's price sucks|
|nate b /||wide-ass Kapton tape||1||0||http://store.makerbot.com/kapton-120-mm-tape.html|
If you need an Arduino on short notice at a decent price, please contact Roger S. Here's a listing of current inventory:
|Mega 2650 R1||$22||1|
|Motor Control Shield||$9||3|
|Yellow I2C LCD Module||$13||2|
|Breadboard Power Supply||$3||2|
The motor control shield is this one: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mshield/
The following list is an attempt to offer up suggestions of tasks that could be accomplished in the Electronics Room by people interested in helping out.
Feel free to take charge of one or more of these items as your time and expertise allow. If you have taken charge of a task, please put your name into the field next to the task.
Should you run out of time or ability to complete a task, make sure to post on the mailing list and "fail loudly". This ensures that task status is shared, and no task languishes in silent failure.
|Populate ToDo List||Add a list of things that are needed/wanting to be done in the eRoom.||1||Nate B.|
(Just a copy of a post on the mailing list, feel free to pretty this section up and remove this note.)
Referring to the numbered photo:
1: "Fish" scale, 50lb or thereabouts, hook style. Often the easiest way to measure a weight or force, this thing's built tough and has been with us since the Royal Oak days. Owner: Nate B.
2: Kill-a-watt or similar plug-in AC wattmeter. We have several of these. Useful not just for load measurement ("Can this run from that extension cord?"), but also power factor, voltage sag under load, etc. Owner: Various.
3: Logic Dart. This is like a pocket oscilloscope except it doesn't do analog -- it's a multichannel logic analyzer and even disassembles a few protocols. Incredibly useful for things like async serial troubleshooting, but the probes and wires are delicate. Owner: Ted Hansen.
4 and 5: Noncontact AC "volt-sniffers". Beeps in presence of AC field, use as a first quick-check to find live wires. Never trust your life to this; always verify with an actual meter before beginning work! Owner: Various/unknown.
6: Noncontact AC volt-sniffer built into flashlight. Push button to turn on white LED, and blue/red LEDs indicate presence and relative intensity of field. Usage same as above. Owner: Nate B.
7: Three-light AC outlet tester. You know this one. Trivia: Solid-state relays (and triac-based dimmers) in their "off" state can allow enough leakage to light the neon lamps in this tester. Confusion ensues! Owner: Nate B, perhaps others, I think there are a few of these around.
8: LCR meter. That's L for inductance, C for capacitance, R for resistance. This is the cheapest of the cheap, and doesn't work on very high or very low values. Also operation if you select the wrong component type is unpredictable. Also sometimes it's just plain unstable. But it works, mostly. (A better LCR meter is on the wishlist.) Use for sorting or checking capacitors prior to use. Owner: i3.
9: Laser distance meter. Seriously consider reading the manual, this has way too many features. By default it seems to figure its own body into the length measurement, but I'm sure that's configurable if you don't want that. Surprisingly accurate. Owner: Nate B.
10: Ultrasonic distance meter. Purchased before, and obsoleted by, the superior instrument above. Still somewhat useful for assessing the ultrasonic reflectivity of materials, also perhaps annoying dogs or bats. Owner: Nate B.
11: Sound pressure level meter. Uncalibrated but still useful for relative measurements, has A- and C-weighted filters. Owner: Nate B.
12: Light intensity meter. Measures in lux, can manually convert to footcandles or whatever. Supposedly weighted to human sensitivity curve but I find this claim dubious given its price. Uncalibrated, obviously. Too sensitive to measure direct sunlight; use neutral-density filters to stop it down and then adjust your math later by comparing to a known light source. Owner: Nate B.
13: Inline DC wattmeter/ammeter/hourmeter: Replacement for the similar-but-larger Watts-Up meter (which met an untimely end when its max-voltage spec was exceeded), this one has more features but seems less accurate. Anyone with ideas for calibration, have at and let me know what you find! Super handy for measuring battery charge and capacity, device load, etc. Sadly only measures in one direction so not useful as a battery coulomb-counter. Owner: Nate B.
Second photo: Three-mode tachometer. With the nose detatched, this is a photo-tach that measures reflective dots on a belt or rotating object. Snap on the nose, and it measures RPM as the spinny bit is pressed against a shaft end, with 3 different conical attachments for contact. Swap out the cone for the wheel, and it measures surface speed of a belt or whatever. Please keep all the accessories with it in the box! Oh, and RTFM before using the wheel, there's a scale factor... Owner: Nate B.
Not pictured but lives behind the other-meters bin: West Mountain Computerized Battery Analyzer III (CBA3). A computer-controlled resistive load with a calibrated ammeter, you charge the battery with your usual charger, then use this to discharge it and see how much power you got out. Software is on the CD in the box. Owner: Nate B.
Also recently joined: Simpson micro-ohmmeter, not yet set up and working; we need to make some BNC-to-Kelvin clip leads for it. And then sanity-check it with a few known low resistances. But then it's an amazing tool for measuring wires and other resistances below the range of typical multimeters. Owner: Evan?
Some resources I've found useful for learning soldering, for those like me that prefer a good video over reading a website:
Pace Basic Soldering Lessons: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL926EC0F1F93C1837
Pace Rework & Repair Lessons: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL958FF32927823D12
Tangent Tutorials: http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/
What's that? A collaboratively-edited collection of parts that hobbyists actually find useful? Yes! Behold, the Partfinder! http://www.ladyada.net/wiki/partfinder See also Dangerous Prototypes' collection: http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Partlist
There's a trove of 7400-series datasheets here: http://www.skot9000.com/logic-datasheets/
Gorgeous printable reference sheets: http://www.akafugu.jp/posts/resources/reference-sheet/
Nate B's personal bookmarks on the subject are here: http://delicious.com/myself248/electronics
Please feel free to edit this section and add more links!
Pages in category "Electronics Shop"
The following 8 pages are in this category, out of 8 total.