Welding Area

(Difference between revisions)
Jump to: navigation, search
(→Let's Learn to TIG Weld!)
(→Let's Learn to TIG Weld!)
Line 26: Line 26:
  
 
*P&H Welder Manual http://www.tpub.com/content/welding/TM-5-3431-213-14/index.htm
 
*P&H Welder Manual http://www.tpub.com/content/welding/TM-5-3431-213-14/index.htm
 +
 +
*This document in .doc format, suitable for printing.
  
 
I3 is fortunate enough to have the use of a very nice P&H Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welder.
 
I3 is fortunate enough to have the use of a very nice P&H Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welder.

Revision as of 18:23, 26 April 2011

Safety First

Welding is a great way to join and form metal. Welding use comes at some risk. Let's be careful out there.

  • Eye protection. You must protect your eyes from the bright welding light. If you are TIG, MIG or Arc welding you should be wearing a welding helmet. If you are using oxygen/acetylene welding then you should be wearing a pair of gas welding goggles.
  • Consider the eye protection of others around you. Will they get flashed by your welding arc? Use the blue welding safety screens to protect others in the shop.
  • Proper clothing. Shorts and T-shirt won't do. Arc welding gives off extremely bright light, and you will become badly sunburned in no time. Best is long sleeve cotton clothing and long cotton pants. Polyester clothing will melt easily and should never be worn by anyone welding.
  • Proper footwear. Leather closed toe shoes should be worn. It doesn't take long for a small hot bead of metal to burn right through the top of your canvas tennis shoes. Also consider wearing boots instead of low cut shoes. Think what will happen if a drop of molten metal gets inside your shoe. Ouch.
  • Wear welding gloves to protect your hands.
  • Don't forget that it takes time for hot welded metal to cool. Use pliers to lift work off of the table. Don't leave hot work where an innocent bystander could become burned.
  • Quick.. where is the nearest fire extinguisher?

Let's Learn to TIG Weld!

References:

  • This document in .doc format, suitable for printing.

I3 is fortunate enough to have the use of a very nice P&H Tungsten Inert Gas (TIG) welder. 

Instructions for use follow:
  • Turn on the Argon Gas bottle at the wall rack. Remember that the seal system for inert gas only completely seals the stem at full closed and full open. Turn the knob in the desired direction until it stops. When the TIG machine is turned on, you can adjust the argon flow (watch the red ball in the vertical glass tube).
  • Check the power switch on the junction box on the wall. Is it turned on?

Quirks of the I3 P&H TIG machine.

  • Sometimes the foot pedal sticks just enough to turn on the solenoid. This is very bad, particularly if you are using an old style welders shield. Its too easy to flash your eyes in error. Best action, is to ensure foot pedal is at top of stroke before you turn on the machine.
  • Argon use. The machine flows argon gas whenever the machine is turned on. Argon gas is expensive. This means turn off the machine when you have finished your weld, and don’t turn it on again until just before you are ready to run your next bead.

Machine settings: What material are you welding?

  • Steel? If you are using steel, set the Polarity Selector Switch (large three position switch on the right hand lower area) to the full clockwise position, Direct Current Straight Polarity (DC Electrode Negative). You should be using the red tungstens (2% Thoriated) for DC TIG welding.
  • Aluminum? If you are using aluminum, set the Polarity Selector Switch to the full counterclockwise position, Alternating Current (AC). You should be using the green tungstens (pure tungsten).for AC TIG welding.


Choose machine settings and tungsten based on the following chart:

Material Being Welded

Material Being Welded Thickness

Tungsten Type

Tungsten Electrode Diameter

Cup Opening (ID)

Filler Metal Diameter

Polarity

Amperage Range (Amps)

P&H Range Selector Switch

Argon Flow Rate

Welding Speed

Notes:

Steel

1/16"

Red (2% Thoriated)

1/16"

1/4 to 3/8

1/16"

Straight Polarity (DCEN)

50-80

Medium

22 to 162 Amps

11 cfh

12 inches / minute

 

Steel

3/32"

Red (2% Thoriated)

1/16"

1/4 to 3/8

1/16"

Straight Polarity (DCEN)

80-110

Medium

22 to 162 Amps

11 cfh

12 inches / minute

 

Steel

1/8"

Red (2% Thoriated)

1/16"

1/4 to 3/8

3/32"

Straight Polarity (DCEN)

85-120

Medium

22 to 162 Amps

11 cfh

12 inches / minute

 

Steel

3/16"

Red (2% Thoriated)

3/32"

1/4 to 3/8

1/8"

Straight Polarity (DCEN)

125-200

High

78 to 342 Amps

13 cfh

10 inches / minute

 

Steel

1/4"

Red (2% Thoriated)

1/8"

1/2

3/16"

Straight Polarity (DCEN)

225-300

High

78 to 342 Amps

13 cfh

5 inches / minute

Oops.  Too hot for air cooled torch. Requires water cooled torch.

Aluminum

1/16"

Green (pure tungsten)

1/16"

1/4 to 3/8

1/16"

Alternating Current (A/C)

65-75

Low

10 to 72 Amps

15 cfh

12 inches / minute

 

Aluminum

1/8"

Green (pure tungsten)

3/32"

3/8 to 7/16

3/32" or 1/8"

Alternating Current (A/C)

115-135

Medium

35 to 205 Amps

17 cfh

12 inches / minute

 

Aluminum

3/16"

Green (pure tungsten)

3/32" rgb(0, 0, 0)

7/16 to 1/2

3/32"

Alternating Current (A/C)

125-150

Medium

35 to 205 Amps

21 cfh

11 inches / minute

 

Aluminum

1/4"

Green (pure tungsten)

3/32"

1/2 to 3/4

3/32"

Alternating Current (A/C)

190-220

High

112 to 420 Amps

25 cfh

10 inches / minute (If using 1/8 filler rod, use 2 passes)

 

Aluminum

3/8"

Green (pure tungsten)

1/8"

5/8

1/8"

Alternating Current (A/C)

110-260

High

112 to 420 Amps

29 cfh

Requires 2 passes, 1st pass 3/32 filler@220-260 amps, cover 1/8" filler at 110-130 amps

Oops.  Too hot for air cooled torch. Requires water cooled torch.

Aluminum

1/2"

Green (pure tungsten)

1/8 or 5/32"

5/8

1/8"

Alternating Current (A/C)

120-290

High

112 to 420 Amps

31 cfh

Requires 5 passes, 1st pass 3/32 filler@270-290 amps, remainig passes 1/8" filler…

Oops.  Too hot for air cooled torch. Requires water cooled torch.


Control panel.jpg

Other machine settings?

  • Set the large Output Control knob to desired setting. The foot pedal will control the actually amperage output to the maximum set on the dial. If you need less heat, back off on the foot pedal. If you need more heat, press the foot pedal further down.
  • Flipper switches, set: Remote Control , Soft Start Operative / Inop (per users discretion), Inert Gas Arc Welding, High Frequency Starting Continuous (per users discretion).
  • There are two small black dials on the right hand side of the machine, These are for the high frequency start circuit. Normally both of these knobs are set such that the white indicator line on the knob is vertical.

Getting ready to weld.

  • Prepare all of your materials. Ensure you have clean metal, including stainless steel wire brush on all aluminum to remove the surface coat of aluminum oxide.
  • As a general rule, set tungsten extension “stick out” distance equal to the diameter of the electrode. You may have to extend it further to reach some welds as required, but note this makes it harder to ensure inert gas coverage, etc.
  • As a rule of thumb, while TIG welding, arc length (the distance between the end of the electrode and the work piece) is: One electrode diameter for A/C TIG welding, and usually considerably less for D/C TIG welding. Be careful to not allow the hot electrode to contact the weld puddle, or the filler rod. If you do touch, you will see a flash of light, and molten material will wick up and contaminate the tungsten electrode. When that happens, you should stop, regrind the electrode.
  • If you want to get better, Practice, Practice, Practice!!


Retrieved from "http://i3detroit.com/wi/index.php?title=Welding_Area&oldid=1608"
Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Toolbox